GCE23LBWHFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Really simple... broken light switch easily removed with flat edge screw driver. Once removed unplug and plug new one in and good to go.

I got the wrong switch before so just need to put the right 1 in. Super easy, pop off old, plug in new, click back into place. Done. REALLY REALLY EASY for anyone to do

slide in place

remove light cover then remove 4 screws holding light fixture in place pulled out fresh food inlet cover and had to removed 2 more screws at bottom of cover then unplug electrical connector. replace with new one then replace all 6 screws and light cover done. so far its been working great no more freeze ups.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

Manually inserted new refrigerator module inserts

I made my wife fix it.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

It was so darn easy! Took less then 10 minutes to fix. Self explanatory no instructions needed! Very cool!

removed 6 screws and repaced cover.

Knew the switch was bad. Researched on the internet how to fix. Used a steak knife to pop the old one out, changed the contacts to the new switch and popped it back in. It took longer to open the box than it did to replace the switch. And the part arrived 2 days after I ordered it.

Unplug the refrigerator. Gently pry old switch out with screw driver. Move wires to connector on new switch with needle nose pliers. Pop it back into the hole. Plug back in. Peek inside to see the lights working.

It clips right in

It was a bit hard to pop it into place.