GC2327PEDB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Had to remove the ice-maker (also easier than trying to work inside the freezer letting all the cold air out). A few mounting screws and an electrical connection in the back. After it was out you will need to remove the cover (not the superficial cover that just pries off) where the gear is behind it, just far enough so you can get the mounting tabs on the ice-stripper in. In order to to move this cover out, after removing the screws (the obvious), you'll need needle nose pliers to ever so slightly squeeze the plastic clips together that hold the plastic movable bracket and the metal ice level arm/switch, so it will pop out. Once you have room to put the ice stripper in, it should just all snap back together, then proceed in reverse to put it all back together.

Simply remove the ref door bracket at top and remove the door from the bottom hinge pin...Then replace the lower hinge, hinge pin and door closer... Reinstall the door and adjust for level...This took only 25 min to fix.

Called a serviceman. The Air return cover is NOT the cover we replaced. Ours is 3/4 of the way down on the freezer side of fridge. Put a thermometer inside, to monitor it.

I removed three screws from top hinge. Lifted door off bottom hinge and set door on a flat surface. Replaced part and set door back in place. Put screws back and door fit tight again.

I watched the instructional video included with the shipping date e-mail(about 3 minutes long), and simply followed the instructions. It took about 2 days for the refrigirator section to return to normal cool temperature to the level set.

empty frezzer take door off unplug wires going to ice maker unscrew/bolt icemaker replace door take motor cover off ice maker remove screws on motor replace ice cup and put every thing back together

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

bought new brackets and snapped on to sides of door basket and snapped back into the door of freezer. No tools required.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Very easy once we had the pins! The amazing part was how fast we obtained them, how easy the ordering process was, and how vast and easy the selection process. Entering the model number took us right to a diagram of what we needed! The placement of the pins was almost self explanatory by the shape and size, but the diagram would have been very helpful had we needed it. My son replaced the lost pins, re-mounted the doors, and re-connected the water supply in the door in under 15 minutes. Everything works perfectly!