GC2327PEDB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug appliance. Socket wrench to unscrew two screws. Module drops down. disconnected two press-on wires by prying off with screwdriver. Removed old switch. Press-fit new switch. Reconnected two wires (color coded). Screwed module back in place. Plug in appliance.

Part was easy to order, delivered quickly, installation very easy. Just unplug the unit, pop out the old swich using a screwdriver, disconnect and reconnect leads and pop switch back in. Definitely recommend that you can do it too.

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

Great service. Unpluged old switch and pluged in new one. Works great

Used a screwdriver to pry loose the old switch, swapped wires to the new switch and pushed it into the opening. Took about 2 minutes.

A very cold and brittle switch in a 17 year old fridge. Used screwdrivers to pry out with some resistance Had to cut the molded plug in half and split wires, because replacement contacts were farther apart than the original. End result, works great.

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.

Removed the food out of the fresh food door. Removed the top hinge cover, removed the 3 nut screws on top. Lifted the door off of the bottom pin. Set the door to one side. Removed the lower hinge pin with a screw driver and replaced with new product. Lifted door back onto lower hinge pin, secured the top pin hinge with the 3 nut screws, replaced the top hinge cover and placed food back into the door. Done in less than 15 minutes.

Removed the top hinge of the door. Lift door off the lower hinge. Unscrewed the "natural closer" from the bottom of the door and replaced with new part. Pulled off the lower hinge from the lower bracket and replaced with new hinge pin. Replaced and realigned door. Piece of cake!

Place two 2x4s, stacked on each other on floor parallel and close to refrigerator, leaving room for socket handle and extensions to three lower hinge bolts. Placed 3 foot 2x4 at right angles on top of the parallel stack of 2x4s, with one end under right hand refrigerator door. Placed 20-30 lb bucket of rice on other end of 2x4 to exert upward pressure on door, raising door bottom off of hinge pin. Removed three hinge screws. Replaced Natural Door Closer and Lower Hinge pin. Screwed three hinge pin screws back in. Removed fulcrum.

replaced the broken basket stop with new one. took a whole minute to do so!!!!!

I simply removed the old brackets and replaced with the new ones. Can't get any easier than that!

This was easy. Removed the plastic cover at the top hinge. Removed the 3 screws at the top hinge. Lifted the door off of the bottom hinge and laid it on it's side. The part that was worn out is the "natural door closer". It looks like this part will need to be replaced every few years, it is made of plastic and was ground down to nubs. Remove the screws holding it down and replace it with the new one. Lubed it up with some WD40 to get rid of squeaks. I also replaced the lower hinge pin, but I don't think that was necessary.

Repair requires the removal of the bottom hinges on the doors. No problem for the refrigerator side, but the freezer side has wiring in the freezer door for the water/ice dispenser, so have some wood blocks handy to prop it up. Biggest challenge is that in the center of the kickplate there is a mounting screw (Torx head) that is behind the kickplate and runs vertically. I removed the old kickplate without removing this screw, just broke the kickplate off. The screw is very difficult to access with any tool. Removal wasn't too terrible because the old kickplate was gone; but insertion with the new kickplate in place was a challenge. I used a Torx socket, but because there isn't enough clearance for the ratchet, I held the socket into place by wedging a large flat blade screwdriver between the bottom of the socket and the floor. I was just able to get my index finger under the new kickplate to slowly turn the socket to fasten the screw. Unfortunately I didn't feel as though I could skip the screw - without it the kickplate sags in the center.