GC2225GEK3 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

With a socket set wrench this is the second time it happen no problem

Watched a Utube video

I removed the bucket and then took the feed screw out and replaced the end cap and reinstalled the feeder in the new bucket and put it back in place and it worked fine. This is not a hard job, you just have to pay attention to the dismantle so you can get every thing back together properly.
the breakdown and parts list was a big help.

ordered the the glass using the schematic provided on line , was very easy & conveniant to have the parts delivered right to your doorstep. Highy recomemend this service & will use again in the future.

Couldn't figure out how to get the old one out till I saw the new one.Pop the old one out slide the 2 wires on the new one pop it back in place,good to go.

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

I removed the ice tray from the freeze. Turn over and remove screws holding the face plate on. Remove the 4 screws holding the crushing mechanism in place. Pull the entire mechanism out and remove the nut holding the blades together. Remember the alignment of the blades. Remove blades and then the pastic crush wheel. Replace in reverse order. Very easy.

The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..

I had to pull the old ice bucket out, remove the front cover and the ice churner from the old bucket. The churner had to be installed onto the new ice bucket, then the front cover had to be snapped back on to the front of the ice bucket. Finally, the new bucket was slid into place. The whole process was relatively easy for a non-mechanical person like me, with the help of detailed instructions that came with the unit. The on-line video was also helpful. I would recommend this company to friends.

dismanteled ice bucket end and removed auger slid helix off and reinstalled auger in bucket. real good instructions.

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

Emptied and disassembled the freezer. Defrosted and dried the coils. Tested the defrost heater coil ( 50 ohms ) PRT and fan - all OK. Opened the lower back panel and cleaned the water collection tray. Vacuumed out all debris including coils underneath. Reassembled everything. Removed the old control board and installed the new board paying attention to ESD steps. Applied AC power. Programmed the new board per the video link ( nicely done ). 3 weeks later and the unit seems dry and happy. Running at lower settings with good temperature results. Suspect the 24VDC relay activating the defrost heater coil on the control board or what controls the relay not working. May pull relay for test.

Removed the cover using a mirror to see how to release the clips on the rear side of the cover, removed the circuit board noting how everything was installed and also visually verified the part was the same. Broke the circuit at the designated score, installed and followed instructions for programming. All is well now.

pull open seal lift up release bottem catch push in to release top catch clean disk and installnew seal put back in the reverse of taking out dont take any thing else apart

bought new