FWS845GCT3 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Put the front up on a 4 X4 block. Removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Slid the front panel down and off. With pliers squeezed the spring clamp and removed the hose, slid the hose out of the machine. Slid in the new hose into the hole in the back, put the spring clamp on the hose, slid the pump end of the hose onto the pump and using pliers put the spring clamp back on. Put the front panel back on and the screws, removed the block. Tested the washer.

Took off back of washer. Control panel and top. Disconnected hot and cold water inlet hose. Pulled offwire leads. Unscrewed valve from washer. installed new valve. Reconnected wire leads. connected hoses. put top back on. put back of washer and control panel back on. Reconnected water. Done. Nothing too difficult. just a little time consuming. Space was an small issue in the laundry room.

I met her in the basement lonely and needing a fix i went down on my knees and started to take off her worn out belt slowly down past her pulley and off her soon to be hot transmision. i gently held her pulleys as i wrapped her new belt around them. putting her chasies back together and plugging her in i pushed her button and off she went shakening and rallting once again.

The part was fine,except for one problem. The screw holes in the part were too small for the sheet metal screws. After several minutes of trying to get the screws to turn, I got a small round file and enlarged the holes until the screws fit. Luckily for me, I've had to do things like that before. Otherwise, the installation was straightforward. And the washer no longer leaks!

Straight-forward: remove hose wire-clamps, unplug electric/ground, unbolt bottom pump bracket (two studs), reset new pump outlet to match factory configuration (easy, but watch to not roll/pinch o-ring seal), reinstall in reverse order (wire-clamps are toughest part - clamping tools, as noted, are helpful). Also, clean hoses, esp. if old, and it helps to use some kind of vinyl guard (like Amorall) on them for lube and preservation. Leak-test. Plan for some water leakage during removal - sopping/vac'ing out the drum, catching hose drainage in a shallow pan or with a towel will help.

It was easy. No problem getting the to v-belt.

The original inlet valve comes in from the rear and the replacement inlet valve mounts horizontally and this will not allow the use of the valve mounting plate and I needed to make a new plate so the supply hose could mount. After making the new plate and having the supply hose attach vertically, the system appears to be functioning properly. Having to make a new mounting plate was an unexpected adventure!

The longest part was cleaning and taking the washer apart , the screws were rusted to the bottom of the washer front,had to spray and pound on screws to get them out.after cleaning dirt and rust in the washer I greased the idle pulley.Putting on the belt was a snap.I also had to repair a leg screw that keeps the washer level, Washer runs like a new washer. very Pleased with the results. Its like having an old washer restored to new. it looks and sounds like a new washer.It took less then 5 mins to change the lid strike.

Remove the agitator and the 2 bolts that clamp the spin drum to the shaft and pull up on drum the 2 seals are on the shaft right there. Pry up on the seals to remove them. Install all seals and Be sure to completely clean all parts before putting them back in the machine and re assemble the machine. The bad part of this job is if you have used powdered soap it took 3 hours to clean the parts before reassembly.

This appliance is being used in a third world country with no parts access. I discovered Partselect and easily found the schematic with parts listed. Needed parts were easily identified ordered online and received within 4 days in the US and in time to take on my day later flight outbound. The process was seamless and expeditious. Thank you Partselect!

followed on line instructons very easy

remove everything per your installation sheets which were right on ,everything when great. thank you .The only thing i had a problem with was ordering your bolts. The order list was not clear on how many bolts you get when you order. It did not say per screw I order 1, thinking it was the set of 5 but it was 1. ps460201 also bolts #ps3655064 i order 1 but there two Please let everyone know that .Again thank you great instruction Gary

Removal was relatively simple, and pretty self explanitory as per the instuctions on the website, except for having to actually take sandpaper to the agitator shaft to remove the rust build up from many years of use.After getting the rust off, made it easier to remove the seal housing. Removed and cleaned the seal area and replace with the new seals. Everything went pretty well. Put in the new belt tensioner pulley and replace the covers. Ran the machine at medium load cycle. No leaks, no noise from the pulley. Runs like a new machine. The lady was really pleased with the results.

Hard to reach around the motor and gear box to attach the belt and pulley not much room. Harder to put the front pannel back on than take off

Checked drive belt by removing two screws on the BOTTOM of the front panel. Would spin dry but not agitate. Motor is two directional. Spin one way, agitate the other way. Same belt, so not the belt. Removed the agitator and the drive was turning but not the agitaor. It APPEARED that the agitator drive block was part of the agitator. IT IS NOT. Tap out the drive block,(Part # PSii52574)by threading a long bolt with the same threads as the screw that held the agitator to the drive assembly. Gently tap and the drive block will drop out. Replace the Agitator drive block. Worked like new for $21.32 + SH. The old agitator drive block was broken in pieces thus not allowing the agitator drive to turn the agitator back and forth. Did not need the Agitator, agitator screw or agitator spacer. Easy fix. No experience necessary. Cliff