FTF2140FE1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

It was very good. They should have mentioned about the wire and spring to remove the rubber strip though. Found out about that in comments! Otherwise, very good!

New part installed as per repair video - no problems.

Screwed the new part back into place.

Easy fix for a verry poor designed door catch. Almost purposeful on the manafactures behalf to make it out of cheap plastic Remove 2 screws replace install 2 screws

I ordered pump so I would have it on hand. I didn’t want the washer in pieces waiting on parts. New pump came in 2-3 days with standard shipping. Found a video online for this model. Removed top. Removed control panel and set on front edge of frame. Removed door seal spring. Removed front panel and separated seal from drum. Pump located at bottom left. Removed pump screws. Got a shallow pan from kitchen to catch water. Removed hoses and trap. Not much water. Took trap boot and pump to sink for cleaning and found a bra wire had made it past the screen and was rubbing on pump impeller. That was the noise. Cleaned and reinstalled old pump. Has been running for 2 months without a problem. Easily returned the new pump! Highly recommend this company and site. Will come here for my repair jobs first. Hope I remembered all the steps correctly since it has been over 2 months.

Watched the video on website and followed what they said. Worked great.

the work is simple, its getting it done. The pins that hold the shocks in are very hard to get to and no room to swing a hammer. I had to use a C- clamp on the left upper in and it was no picnic. The washer in the video was a little different than mine.

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.

Took door lock switch out and fished out broken part. Reinstalled switch and installed new striker. Problem solved. Ordered extra striker just in case.

removed the two screws that were attached to the old door and put the new door on.

It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

With breakdown maual, I diassembled the door and reinstalled the glass and rehung the door and closed it. Turned on the machine and the bottom of the glass does not meet the rubber seal on the washer opening.

For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The drum would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!

As others have mentioned, it was pretty straight forward although a bit finicky to get into the tight spots to press out the pins. The little piece of 1x4 block helped press the pins back in. For the right side shock, I had to undo the large rubber hose at the bottom of the drum and also had to remove the sheet metal shield in the back to allow clearance for the pin to come out. There's only 2 screws holding it in so again, not too hard to do.