FSG748GFS0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)

Turned the knob to Start dryer one time too many and the knob broke in pieces. Got tired of using a set of pliers to start the dryer so Google was my friend. The install was quick and easy even if trying to decide what know what knob matched it took a while. But it was a perfect match (I bought an extra in case the knob on the 10 year old washer decided to do the same thing). The price was nice, the delivery fast and now you will have repeat customer who will mention this site to their friends if they need parts.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

I removed the broken knobs and replaced them with the fresh ones.

The amazing part of the story was that my order was placed at 11:46 AM, shipped at 2:51 PM, and arrived early the following morning. Incredible service. Thank you!

Ordered part from partselect.com. Part was back ordered; however they were very proactive in communicating status updates! When it arrived it was simply a matter of removing door using a philips screwdriver, installing the new hinge and presto - job complete! Kudos to partselect.com ??

Took out of package. Used screw driver to pop off old broken handle.
Installed new part in a minute or two. Nothing to it. Was very pleased to get the part and so easy to install.

pi;; tp remove old knob, inspect and lightly lube shaft and press onnew knod. Of note Original knob had a metal brace around the shaft while the new knob has a brace inside the shaft.

I YouTube'd how to repair it. It was super easy. Needed a power drill to get the screwsa off and a flat head screwdriver to pry off the wires but besides that it took about ten minutes and I was finished.

popped in one in

Took the front off the dryer and removed the old switch and put in the new one.

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.

Removed the broken knob and pushed on the replacement knob. A pure "no-brainer."