FSE447GHS0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

followed the repair video and replaced thermal fuse and thermostat(recommend replacing both due to the problem could of resulted in either part being the cause),Repair went relatively easy.I also recommend to clean and vacuum the dryer while you have it all apart due to a lot of lint buildup and don't forget to unplug before servicing!Stay Safe!!!

I watched videos so I would know what I was doing. Well No, My thermostat was in the front of the dryer. But after a little blood and sweat, and I am not kidding, I got the front off. I ordered my new part. Finally got it in Spent $40.00 and it still doesn't work. I know it was the right part. I checked all the trouble shooting web site. That was the only thing they said it would be. Friends advice tell me it is the brains of the thing and I need a new one. Well not 2 weeks before Christmas. Thanks for asking. Single hard working mom.

I basically followed the video instructions on your website. Pretty simple but ran into an issue pre-threading the 3 self taping screws into the spindle bearing. The screws provided were blunt on the end and did not tap easily at all. I used the existing screws that were much more "sharp" and worked much better. Also, the new screws were Philips drive and due to the amount of torque trying to self tap nearly stripped them out. The old sharper screws were square drive which had a better bite. So basically, I used the old screws to self tap and then used the new screws for the final installation.
It took a long time to clean all the lint out from the inside of the dryer. The motor was completely embedded with lint and animal hair. You may want to suggest that a good cleaning may be needed so bring a shop vac...and also something to carefully pick the lint balls out from around the motor armature and bearing area. Overall the video instructions were really a big help!

I removed dryer exhaust hose.unsnapped top cover the clips are in front and exposed inside of dryer,remove 2 screws on inside of front cover and set aside. remove lower cover in back and push belt extender until belt is loose remove 3 screws on inside of tumbler. remove tumbler out the front of dryer be careful not to damage belt set aside remove ball plate by pulling up and out it will unsnap. Now remove 2 sets of wires that are connected to heater element plate remove 4 screws holding element plate in place. Since dryer was all exposed I cleaned everything out with a wet vac put back together following instructions in reverse. Good luck

Replace rear bearing, found Exhust tube seal broken. Went ahead and replaced Drum belt & Idler arm assembly. Works like New !

I bought part PS419092 (Rotary Knob) for my Firgidaire FDGB23RGS2 Dryer.

This knob I bought (PS419092) is much cheaper than the parts recommeneded for Frigidaire dryers ( knobs: PS417309 and PS416982 ). It is $6 instead of $18.

The only difference is that it (PS419092) is white instead of cream/off-white.

Putting the knob on was super easy and I'm glad I saved money by buying the less expensive part.

popped the catch in existing hole and replaced the screws

Removed the back panel and the exhaust hose.removed the heater element and changed the thermostat wire was melted cut damaged part of wire soldered and rapped with black electrical tap

I remove the old lint filter and just put the new one in.

i first looked up the diagram for this model and checked for the best way to take the front cover off the dryer. after removing the front cover i start looking for the wires that connect the door switch and remove the wires. the front cover also supports the weight of the drum, so carefully pull the cover until the drum comes loose. at this point you can visually see the parts of the parts that make up the workings of the dryer. i first noticed the drum was coming out with the front cover at this time i knew the rear drum assembly was broke. i then took the belt loose from tension pulley and slid it off the drum and removed both from the cabinet. after the drum was removed i also noticed the heating was broken in several places. i removed four screws from the heating element assembly and also removed two wire that were connected to the element. with all pieces removed i checked the thermal switches, there are three switches, one on the heating element, one on the vent side and one on the back panel of the cabinet. i then installed the rear drum assembly and the heating element assembly and connected the wires. i then slid the drum almost all the in place and put the new belt around the drum and dropped the rear drum into the bracket that supports the rear drum then run the belt around the tension pulley and around the motor pulley. i then placed the front panel back in place and connected the wires for the door switch and lifted the drum assembly up just enough to insert the front panel door support into the drum and placed the clips in place, checked all connections twice and connected power back to the unit and turned on and run it through all its settings.

There are only three screws holding the drum in. However, to get it out I had to remove the front panels, and the top of the dryer part of the washer-dryer combo. The drum came out easily, but getting the new one in was pretty hard. I had to guess how the drive belt was routed around the motor pulley and idler pulley, since I couldn't see it until I'd removed the drum. Since the new drum wasn't exactly like the old one, I had to remove the glide strip from the front panel to get it to fit. At present, the unit is not completely reassembled, so I can't say I've been entirely successful. Tomorrow, I will put it back together, cross my fingers, and switch it on. Wish me luck!

Followup: The dryer part of this washer-dryer combo is back online. At first, the dryer made a squealing noise, but eventually quieted down. At present, the drum replacement seems to be just fine. It cost about $215, and, except for a few cuts due to sharp-edged metal, a dropped clip that disappeared into the depths of the bottom of the washer, it is actually REPAIRED. I could have used more specific help, but, all in all, it has been pretty easy, and pretty effective.

I disassembled the dryer using instructions from the following website for White Westinghouse (pictures really helped)
After removing the drum, I first noticed that the grouding ball was sitting on the bottom of the dryer (along with much lint). I then saw that the bracket for bearing support cup and the bearing support cup were both worn well past use. The bracket had been worn down about 1/4" to the SE with matching wear on the bearing support cup. There was a hole in the bottom of the bearing support cup (hence the grouding ball on the floor of dryer).
I installed the new idler pulley assembly and completely vacuumed out the dryer (I didn't know lint could get so stiff!). I installed the new parts from the kit once received (and the new belt bought previously) and the dryer works great. I'm so used to the obnoxious squealing that it seems odd to be so quiet.

The internet is a magnificent thing!

The new rotary knob just popped right in. No problems. It was a perfect fit.

The disassembly was very easy and it appeared that this would be a very quick repair. But the removal of the old felt was difficult and once it was removed it took a lot of effort to remove the bits still stuck on. The tool of choice to remove the stuck on felt was a small torch. After that use a coarse sand paper to remove the remnants. Glue on the new felt and reinstall the front panel.

Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.