FGID2466QF4A Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

I turned the power off at the circuit breaker. I then took the access panel off the dishwasher at the bottom. I pulled the wire off the connector. I used a plied to remove the broken washer and replaced with new part. I put everything back in reverse order and ran the dishwasher. I than checked for leaks over two days while the machine was running and everything was fine. Thank you Parts Select for saving me $500!

found spray arm on the rack looked at the top of rack saw a nut screw the nut looked at the clip found the ears broke off easy r&r.

Under sink: Disconnected drain hose to garbage disposal, shutoff water feed, unplugged power.
Under Dishwasher:
Removed water feed connection.
On top of Dishwasher:
Removed screws anchoring it to cabinet.
Pulled dishwasher out and flipped down so it’s resting on the front.
Removed drain hose on drain pump.
Removed 3 torx screws on pump, greased o-ring on new pump and reinstalled doing the reverse of these instructions.
Took 1 hour and now it works great!

Slid dishwater out from cabinet, replace cable, slid unit back in , secure ---done! door has tension now.

#1 rule, make sure you valve off the water before removing any hoses. Remove wire trays inside dishwasher and then pull out dishwasher far enough to disconnect water line and power cord. Remove center piece and screen covering sump inside the dishwasher. Turn dishwasher on its side and remove hoses to sump and pump. Disconnect power to sump pump. Loosen retaining nuts that secure the sump and remove. Replace old gasket on sump with new. Turn dishwasher upright. Be careful with placement of new gasket when reinserting sump so that the gasket doesn't come out of position and the sump is centered properly. Secure with retaining nuts from bottom. Reconnect power connector and hoses to sump. Pour enough water into the dishwasher to verify gasket doesn't leak... look with flashlight under dishwasher for signs of water dripping from sump. Reinstall screen and centerpiece in sump inside the dishwasher. Reconnect water line and power cord. Run through wash cycle while monitoring for leaks under dishwasher. Reinstall wire trays.

Piece of cake as long as you get the gasket installed properly and the sump centered correctly... do not overtighten the retaining nuts or it may force the gasket out of position when the screen is secure with the center locking piece over the sump.

All we had to do was remove the old racks and pop in the new. Very easy to do!

Replaced drain pump. It helped some but still hear some squealing. I suspect the main pump might be worn as well. The drain pump did have some "looseness" to it compared to the new part.

Very, very easy. Pop off the old wheels and snap the new ones into place on the rack.

Removed 6 screws from door front panel. Removed two wiring connectors and screws fromdoor latch Replaced and all is great

The door seal comes off easy. No need to take apart the door. The new seal fits snug. Make sure the notch on the right side of the door seal is installed to the right side of the bottom of door

For some strange reason my new dishwasher was installed without a door gasket, which caused a very small water leak. The gasket I purchased was installed in less than 5 minutes and corrected the problem immediately - a very easy task and I am no handyman!

After several years of use and cleaning the small "nubs" that held the locking peice on the assembly under the jet arm had worn off. This allowed the whole thing to spin and the dishes weren't getting clean. Finding the part on the site was easy, it arrived amazingly fast and all is up and working great. I have used Parts Select 2 or 3 times in the past and have always had the same great results. Saved me a bunch in repair bills. Thanks

If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.

First I removed the two screws that hold the dishwasher in place, I pulled out the dishwasher and on the bottom right located the leak. The two brass nuts that hold the heating element in place. The wires had been rusted to the element so I cut the wires (and later spliced them back together) and unscrewed the brass nuts. I ordered the part after finding them very easily on partselect.com and 2 days later screwed them back on to the dishwasher. Spliced the wires back together and put the dishwasher back in place.

Easy Fix.

I left the unit in place. I removed the bottom cover, unplugged power from GFI receptacle and closed water supply valve. I unplugged the electrical connection. I put a dishtowel under water inlet valve and removed water supply. I removed two screws from inlet valve bracket that allowed me to rotate the valve and used pliers to remove water hose clamp and hose. I installed the new valve in reverse order. I checked for leaks; found none. Life is good again!