FEP310KW4 Roper Range - Instructions

Removed the old, broken drawer glide by removing the Phillips head screw. Then placed the new glide into place and fastened with the existing screw.

The rivet on the top of the bottom drawer front was missing. I lined up the drawer front with the supporting bracket behind it and inserted the rivet. All you have to do is tap the top of the pin in the center of the rivet to lock it in place. No rivet tool is needed. That should be explained in the parts listing because I bought the rivet tool before I realized I didn't need it.

My husband pulled the oven out and unscrewed the screws(in the back) the heating element came right out. He did everything on his own. The only thing he needed a little help with was for me to keep the heating coil flush to the back wall of the oven, while he screwed the new one in. It was a very quick job. The longest part was pulling the oven out to get behind it and sliding it back in.

Wire connection was damaged, replaced end piece

My wife did it! I got home one night and my wife had done it! That's how easy it was! Trust me, he is no handyman (woman) but she did it by herself. The part came fast, the price was better than any one else's

After unplugging electric service, loosened 3 Philips-head screws holding 3 wires from range and loosened 3 nuts holding wires from electric cord. Also removed 1 Philips-head screw holding grounding tab. Removed 2 Philips-head screws and removed the old block. Mounted new block with those screws and replaced and tightened all 6 wires.

Very easy remove the burner and instill the drip bowls

Removed old terminal block & replaced with new one. Very simple. Did NOT have to replace cover as stated you should. Shipping could have been a little faster. Will definetly try this site again.

It went great. I am not very handy, but with a little help from your website reviews, I was able to easily remove the old broiler element and replace it with the new one in less than an hour. I immediately tested it and found that it worked great.

Unplugged unit from wall.
Unscrewed the two screws on at he back of the oven where the element is attached
Removed old element by pulling apart the connectors.
Attached new element to the connectors.
Replaced cover with the two screws.

Removed drawer, after removing the 50# of junk in the drawer, Used screw driver to remove screw that holds glide to drawer and then place new part into place put screw into hole and tightened screw. Replaced drawer and told wife not to put 50# of junk back into the drawer.

Unscrewed the switches and let the switch hang while replacing one wire at a time. Followed instructions on wire replacement. Exact parts, only shaft on 6" switch was too long -- okay, because it is designed to break off a piece on end of shaft, then the knob fit. Everything was perfect.

Removed back plate, replaced infinite switch.
Replaced receptacle holder. Took a moment to see how to install wires into the receptacle, no instructions on orientation of wires into the receptacle. Wired receptacle per instructions. Placed receptacle into holder and installed burner. Burner Burner would not lay flat, receptacle longer than original. Removed receptacle from holder, plugged in burner and placed burner into position.

This was a very smooth repair. In total it took about 5 minutes. The pot drawer below the oven wasn't gliding like it once did. After I replaced the glides it works like new. Please note, if you are going to replace one side go the next step and replace both to provide balance to the drawer.

Problem I had was finding the right ones to fit the stove top. Burner pans that tell you will fit most stoves, do not. After I had paid over $20.00 for some that did not fit, I got on the internet, found you, ordered the replacement parts and had them within a few days. Put them in and there you go. A perfectly happy me and a nice looking stove again.

Remove old receptacle and connected and replace new one. Burner now works perfectly again.