FEFLM600DSA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I unplugged the stove. Then I lifted up the top of the stove to expose the burners. I unscrewed the necessary screws and plugs that attached the old burner to the stove. Then I simply put the new one back in it's place. The stove was one of those flat burner stoves, and I was a little concerned that I would be able to do it. The repair man wanted to charge me $150.00 for labor.

This is a slide in oven fully contained not in a wall, or wood enclosure. I slid the unit out away from the wall unplugged the power cord, used the nut driver to remove a dozen screws, not all of them, you dont need to pull the top back plate off just unscrew the bottom 3-4 screws on the top plate to release the lower back cover plate and you see the probe wire and the insertion point/hole. I actually did not even need to pull the full back plate off but it makes the handling of all the tools and stripping easier. I wish they had just left the plug off of the new probe and had left the 2 loose ends of the 2 wires that had to be spliced, it would have saved 15 minutes just with that part. If you dont have a real splicer tool ya gotta be careful to not cut the wires themselves if you use a sharp knife. Just cut the new probe plug off and splice on the old plug from the bad sensor which obviously you have cut and strip as well as I did and then it fits nicely back together like it was ment to be. I put elect tape on the 2 splices, you could use small wire nuts or whatever you desire, but turn the exposed splices back away from each other and tape them to the insulated wire so no exposed wire is touching any metal then I wrapped the completed taped splices with about a 4x5 piece of aluminum foil to help deflect the residual heat coming from the oven when it is on. put the probe through the hole and placed the metal retainer back in place and re- mounted the back panel plate,cover, that was it problem solved. This entire problem was caused originally in this relatively new oven because people who have been using the oven were sitting heavy pots and pans on the oven door and the hinges were sprung. The door would not stay shut during cooking. I dont know how long this had been going on before I discovered the issue. Once I replaced the hinges ( parts select ) the uneven, wrong temp, extended cooking problem jumped up. I am certain it was related to the open door not shutting for several months. They were using a bungie cord to pull the door closed and not completely. At this point I feel very comfortable with using parts select for all my appliance parts and advice. The folks here at my facility think I am an Einstien but when you have parts select working with you in the background you can't go wrong. I asked a hundred questions and learned alot and saved the facility at least 400 dollars by doing it myself. Thanks to my new work buddy PARTS SELECT. I was really a bit apprehensive about the doors hinges they looked dangerous and might have been but the tech I spoke with at P.S. walked me through it on the phone and I read the blogs which are really helpfull SORRY THIS ONE IS SO LONG.

Pulled out range, unplugged power used nut driver to remove back and removed oven probe. Had to change end and reinstalled in reverse order.

replaced oven door glass

simple, removed a few screw's, unplugged old burner, plugged in the new one. that was basically it. easy!

Checked the burner and no power to heat the burner. removed the old switch and put on the new one.

We orderes the hinge kit and replaced the bent hinges. The directions were easy to use (pictures really helped). The only issue was trying to remember where the screws went after we took it apart. Just a few moments of back tracking. Keep in mind we were working by flashlight. lol

unscrewed brace attached to element without any problem and secured the wire so that it would not fall behind liner. Connector was a bit hard to disconnect so asked my handyman to detach it - I was not familiar with this connection and did not want to break it - he did it w/o problems and attached the new bake element pronto. How easy can it get!

After removing an oven rack to make room for the thanksgiving turkey roaster, I have NO IDEA, where I might have stowed it away! After searching every cabinet and every closet I realized I needed to do something quick for our annual christmas cookie marathon that would begin on Sunday. It was so easy to order the part, it arrived the next day, and we baked for 5 hours using the 3 racks in the convection oven. Dozens of cookies later... Thank you Parts Select!

Initially we realized there was a problem while cooking with the large eyes and we began hearing an electrical short behind the control switch. I unplugged the power from the oven/cooktop and removed the back panel where I could visually see soot on the switches where it was shorted. Careful while choosing your part from the diagram on Partselect.com. For the model FEF336ECJ, atleast for my oven, the eye switches were reversed and I ordered the small eye's switches! Luckily they have an outstanding customer support and immediately mailed out the new parts and a label to send the wrong parts back. Changing the parts out was very simple. Pull the oven out and UNPLUG IT from any electrical outlet. Remove the back panel. Double check from the label on the front of the control panel that you are working with the correct switch, and before removing the current switch, remove the wires one by one and place them on the new part to make sure you don't misplace these wires. Once the wires are connected to the new part, pull the plastic knob off of the old switch to reveal the screws on front of the panel. Place the new switch where the old one came from and fasten the screws back in place. Replace the knob, replace the back panel(for safety) and test the new switch before you push the oven back into place. If you can turn a screw driver, move the oven, and unplug the power, this easy do it yourself repair will save you possibly hundreds by not calling a repair/handyman who would absolutely love you to pay out the nose for such an easy task.

I first found a video on Youtube and watched it. Then you flip the hinge latch up and remove door from oven. Then remove 2 door handle screws and 4 screws from the bottom of the door. Then remove 2 screws from each existing hinge. Place new hinges on with new screws that came with the kit. Then replace the 4 screws on bottom of door and then the 2 handle screw and place door back on the oven and open door about half way open then flip hinge keepers back up close door and your done.

Pulled oven from counter space unplugged unit unscrewed 9 - 1/4" tech screws then one more 1/4" tech screw that holds the sensor.Inserted the new element cut the two wire because it was a different connection stripped the wires and did the same to the old element but used the old plug.Connected the plug,plugged the over back in slid the unit back and turned out on for a test.All is well,thank you!

First, I disconnected the electrical power by pulling apart the plug behind the range. Next, I removed the screws holding the service plate on back of the top panel.I removed the switch knob by gently pulling it from the stem. Underneath I found 2 screws holding the switch in the panel. I removed these with a phillips screwdriver.I was able to pull the entire switch out to the rear leaving all wires attached.The new switch looked different from the original and the wires were configured differently but the wires were clearly marked. By removing one at a time and placing it on the new switch to the corresponding marking,it was a simple matter to wire the switch.I reinstalled the switch in the panel,put back in the screws to hold the switch, slid the knob back on the stem, reinstalled the rear panel,and plugged the power cord back in.The switch worked perfectly.

removed the door from the range. removed the 4 layers of glass and carefully set aside the unbroken ones. the 3rd and 4th glasses were held together with a metal frame which had to be dismantled. The old broken glass was rusted and hard to get out of the frame. It had to be cleaned thoroughly of broken glass and rust. the removal process could then be reversed to assemble the parts and re assemble the door to the front of the range

I had order a replacement baking element to start, without trouble shooting the problem. When I had replaced the new bake element, set the oven to bake @ 350*F & watch for the baking element to heat up,it did not heat up. I waited for the oven to cool down,pulled the unit out & unpluged it from the receptacle.I removed the back cover,then I used my volt/ohm meter to check for contunity from the switch to both side of the element. Measured the ohms of the 3 bake elements,all good. Verfied that diodes were ok & there was no open resistors on the circuit board.No proble found. Put the back cover on, pluged the unit into the electrical outlet, pushed the unit back in placed, set the oven to bake @ 350*F, problem solved. My wife have bake several cakes & I cooked Sunday dinner using the oven. The real problem may have been an open circuit between the bottom bake elament & the switch. The repair was completed on 12/02/2012.