FEFBMZ96FCA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Replacing the bake element in the oven was easy once I figured out which tool to use. I initially thought I needed a hex key but saw from a previous commenter that a nut driver is needed. I was able to attach it to a power drill to unscrew the nuts. once the plate was released it was easy to unhinge and install the new element. Be sure to turn off the electricity as the stove is on a 220 line.

Removed back off of stove. Removed two screws that held in the switch, removed the wires that were connected to the switch and replaced the part.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

My husband followed the video instructions and it was easy to fix.

At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief:
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.

I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.

Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.

remove power (unplug) remove screws from element unplug element replug new element replace screws reconnect power bake cookies until something else breaks.

Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.

Replaced the dual element switch and that fixed it up

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

removed the old burner and put the new one in it's place.

First I pulled the unit away from the wall and unplugged it. There are a few screws that hold the top in place - access them from the top/front/underside of the main top - pull open the oven door to get to them. Once these were out, I gently slid the main top forward. There are tabs in the back that fit in slots just under the control panel - just work them free as you slide. I slid the top forward enough to get past a narrow aluminum plate/tab (part #26B) in the very front that runs the width of the top. Once it's free of the tabs in the back, and the front is free, there is enough play in the wires & elements to move the top to one side of the stove and access the heating elements underneath. The heating elements are attached to brackets; the brackets (part# 26) are attached to the main top. You can leave the elements & wires attached to the brackets - there is one screw per bracket that attaches it to the main top - just remove the bracket screws. It requires either a square screw driver or a 1/4 inch socket. Do one side, then the other NOTE WHICH HOLE THE SCREW GOES IN, as there are a few to choose from. After the brackets were free, the top comes off. I moved the back tabs (part #18) from the old top to the new - NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE TABS. I didn't, and had to flip them over, after 20 frustrating minutes. With the new tabs in, I replaced the heating element brackets, then slid the main top back to its original position. If the tabs are in the right position (see above) it'll slide right into place. I had to work the narrow metal plate in the front under the main top with my fingers when sliding it back on. I replaced the front screws underneath, plugged it back in, pushed into place, and it's working fine. About 40 minutes total, extra if you don't note the orientation of the tabs in back, or the location of the element bracket screws. The oversized heating element won't let you put it in incorrectly.

I am a DIY kind of wife. My husband works late most nights and I get home in the afternoon. It was really quit simple except for the element plug slipped into the back of the stove. So I had to pull the stove out from the wall and take a couple of screws out of the back and push the plug back through. It was scarry for a minute but it all ended up just fine and we had a wonderful dinner that night.

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.