F31C747CT0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

popped in one in

Took it apart and installed the parts. Then I threw the dryer in the trash and bought a new one.

Just opened package and popped the part right in!

Took it apart, lost several screws cause I am an Idiot, placed belt back on, cut hand on back of dryer bled over every thing, curse loudly, put it back together and wiped the blood off, worked perfect!

I went great, worked fine, thanks for your very quick shipment. I will always buy from you if I can!

Thanks again
Bill Manning Florida

I first looked at your directions then felt I could do the repair. So I ordered the part. The video was extremely helpful and allowed me to follow each step in the process. Last time I paid $270 for the exact repair. This time I costs me under $30. Plus I was able to clean out the entire inside of the dryer. The sitr instructions were very helpful and on target for any level of experience. I fixed my own dryer and saved a ton on it! Thank You, Randy In Colorado

took off face of dryer, removed drum 4 screws removed two srews holding bearing and shaft ,replaced shaft bearing and shaft . Just for preventive maintenance i replaced idleling arm and dryer belt. I lined everything up replaced drum used shop vac to clean lint and dust from all parts replaced face of dryer and boom i got a btand new dryer

First I raised the top of dryer, then removed 2 screws holding the front of dryer to the sides. removed old drum glide using a putty knife and glued new glide in place with glue provided. replaced front and top. The whole job took about 20 minuets and saved me the cost of new dryer

Removed rear cover, unplug 2 spade connectors, twist out old switch, twistin new switch. plug connectors, install cover

I unpluged the dryer, raised the top cover up, removed 2 two screws & pulled front cover out. Removed the old seal, cleaned the area & installed the new seal. Reinstalled as new. Very, very easy.

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

there are several srcews to remove. there are some u dont have to take out but it looks like u do.ease of the front panel and remove the old drum glide,very hard to get of all the felt.check the the bottom guide before u order parts if possible(i could've replaced mine,but didnt have time to check it first).when glue back in place follow directions exact and clamp.allow glue to dry as long as u can. mine set overnight it was nice and dry(if u dont you'll be doing it all over again)replace everything as you took them off.all works great perfect fit!!

replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.

Popped the topped using a putty knife to free two clips in front. Remove two screws now accessible on the front inside panel. Remove two wires to door switch. Remove rear access door, two screws. Remove belt from tensioner in rear and remember or take picture of how it goes. Lift barrel slightly and pivot front panel out of the way. Lift barrel free from ball socket in rear. Lift out from front panel area. R & R kit and put back in reverse order.

Took front door off, top off, frunt off, removes screws holding rear bearing pivot, and then removed drum. repainted bearing surface on drum, installed parts, let paint dry for a day and reassembled.

Moved dryer out where I could get to all sides, then pulled top off, then unscrewed the front panel. The drum lifted out of it's ball bearing assembly in the back with a little force. Then it slid out fairly easy.

I replaced the rear bearing assembly, the bottom drum glide strip, the top drum glide and the vent seal all at the same time. The glue for the glide strips took about an hour to set up and I used clothes pins every 4-6 inches as suggested by someone else here on this site. Then I vaccuumed out the entire dryer body, vent pipes and every nook and cranny.

I put everything back as it had come out and then put the dryer back in it's place. Plugged it back in and it's as quiet as when it was new. Total time of project was about 1:45.