F1397FYN (ABWEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

Took apart the washer and removed bearings and shaft on spider. My advice would be to order the spider and shaft (one piece) hen ordering the bearings, seal, and tub gasket. If the bearings are gone, it is likely the shaft is gone too as mine was.

Followed the manufacturers instructions to disassemble the washer from the top. There was a video on youtube of a guy who was able to replace his bellows hose from the back, but maybe my arms weren't long enough, I couldn't reach all the way to the front. The washer was pretty easy to take apart, except for taking off the top, where there were 2 extra screws not mentioned in the instructions. Replacing the part was really easy. HERE'S THE MOST IMPORTANT PART: LG DOESN'T MENTION IT IS REALLY HARD TO GET THE CLAMP ASSEMBLY BACK ON THE GASKET WITHOUT A SPECIAL TOOL. You can buy the special LG tool, or you can do what I did (and others on the internet) and buy an $8 "Brake spring spreader" tool at your local auto parts store. Repair was a success. No more water leaking!

Contacted LG customer service, not much help there. Watched a very helpful Utube video on how to find and repair the leak. The video suggested that the most common leak is in the drain hose with bellows. Removed the rear panel and removed the bellows unit using pliers for the clamps and screwdriver for the bellows part. This was pretty easy. The rubber bellows was leaking in the exact same place as the youtube video showed. This is a Design Flaw that LG needs to fix. Ordered the new part and installed the bellows portion of the part first, as the angle for that installation needs to be correct. Then attempted to install the end of the hose (very inaccesible) to the pump drain. Very difficult to position the factory supplied spring clamp with pliers so I purchased a screw-type clamp (using the nut-driver rather than a screw-driver to tighten the clamp was helpful) at the local hardware store and that made my job much easier. Note: My unit is mounted on a pedestal, so it was a little easier to access the part location (about one foot off the floor, rather than at floor level), but it may be that the part should be replaced from the bottom of the unit, which would make it much easier to access. Then I installed the other end of the hose to the drain line using a screw-type clamp. I am 69 years old, and not that flexible anymore, so getting down on the floor to reach inside the unit was difficult. You need patience to do this job and you have to make sure all the clamps are properly installed so you don't start the machine up and end up with another leak. For me, this process was difficult and took more than two hours to complete. Limited access to the area made it more difficult and I hate the factory clamps they use. Overall, the repair costs about $25, compared to the $125 just to come look at the machine, then more money to fix the unit. It was satisfying to complete the repair for a small amount of money, but not sure it was worth the aggravation.

Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.

Hot water valve was leaking when washer was not in use and flooded floor. Advised owner to replace hit and cold water valve same time since only hot valve was bad. Hot water was easy but cold was difficult because it has the bleach and softener valve attached in one unto with three hoses and three wire connections. The opening at back of machine was small and you must have small hands to replace them. If not, then you have to remove top cover to get to it which is extensive.

found a slow leak in one of the valve seat gaskets and decided to replace the entire valve (also did the hot inlet as well just in case). Unplugged unit, detached water hoses (replaced these as well), moved the washer out about 12" from the wall. With Phillips head removed the washer top. With pliers removed the hose clamps off the valve heading to the detergent dispenser (be sure to keep track of what hose goes to what nipple). Detached electric clip from each solenoid. Using Phillips head removed the valve. Use reverse order to install new valve. Ran the unit through a long cycle with the top off to ensure there were no leaks.

Simply took hose off from inside machine and replaced it with new one. The tore one had a stopper on one end that wrapped to front machine; inside filter compartment. So I put stopper on the other end of new hose and wrapped it to it's holding spot in filter compartment.

Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.

1. Remove spring-loaded clamp assembly. 2. Partially pull out the large rubber gasket near the lock switch assembly to gain access to the lock switch assembly. 3. Unscrew two screws holding the lock switch assembly. Carefully separate the connector from the lock screw assembly and replace it with the new part. Reinstall in reverse sequence. Ensure that the electrical connector is fully seated unto the lock switch assembly and the connector latch is fully set against the lock switch body. Also make sure that the large rubber seal is fully seated around the door opening to prevent water leak. Restarted the washer and everything worked as before.

Ordered a new water valve, easy installation, removed top cover of washer. Two screws and three hose clamps, done in 20 minutes.

removed 2 screws on back. removed top. disconected wires and hoses removes 2 screws holding assy in place and removed assy. put in new assy and installed hoses and plugs in same location removed from. reinstalled top and hose and ran washer.. new valve unite works but has a high pitched whine when valves turn on. :(

Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.

Unplug washer!!! 1. Remove retaining ring around rubber gasket with flat head screwdriver. Just slightly pry off and it will easily come off. 2. Just peel back rubber gasket on the side that the lock is on. 3. remove 2 screws from the front off the lock assembly. 4. gently reach in and lift the little plastic clip holding the wiring harness and lift straight off. If the clip is lifted it might be a little tight just use even steady pressure to pull off. 5. Reverse these instructions to replace. Note: replacing the retaining ring on the rubber is a pain. The spring has to be in the bottom. Using a couple of flathead screwdrivers you can wrangle it back in place after awhile. There is a tool that looks like a large reverse pliers that may make it easier. Anyway thats it, pretty easy. There is a youtube video that shows all of this.

The bellows hose on the bottom of the tube had worn through where it flexed. This was an easy job except for the long reach you had to make under the washer to reach the hose clamps that held the part in place. These were spring loaded clamps which were easy to remove with pliers. I replaced them with ones that could be tightened with a socket wrench since it was hard to replace the sprung clamps.

Disconnect electric and remove top cover and remove connectors and hoses then the valves