F1267FDY (ABWESED) LG Washer - Instructions

In order to replace the bearings of a front loader LG Washer you will need to disassemble the entire unit. you should have excellent mechanical skills to tackle this project with necessary tools. Plan on replacing both bearings and rear seal, also plan on replacing the spider and drum seal. The Spider that supports the inner drum will be corroded due in part to seal failure. By the time you are hearing the bearing noise the damage to the spider will have taken place and need replacing. You can watch a few videos on youtube with similar appliances to give you an idea of the project at hand. Once disassembled cleaned and inspected the assembly goes real smooth. The washer now works as good as new and is ready for another 10+ years of service. Doing this project myself has saved me from buying a new one and that savings amounts to over $1000 bucks. LG washers are built to last and you will see that while working on it! Good Luck and do your homework!

With basic tools,the original drawer was broken up in tiny pieces and removed. The replacement drawer seems to have a little different design and doesn’t hang up internally.

Followed instructions on YouTube link. Replaced the shock absorber and washer is working really well.

1. Unplugged electric chord from wall.
2. Pulled washer out into open area to get behind it.
3. Turned off hot and cold water faucets
4. Used channel locks to remove hot water and cold water hoses from back of washer. Dropping hose into a bucket to catch water from hose.
5. Removed screws (Phillips screw driver) holding top to back of washer.
6. Pulled back on the top and lifted off washer.
7. Arranged new intake valve to mock location and setting of old intake valve.
8. Using Phillip screw driver, unscrewed old intake valve from back of washer.
9. Unconnected wiring from old intake valve. These were easily identified and not needed to mark left right center.
10. Using pliers, pinched hose clips and moved to middle of the hose. Did this for all 3 hoses.
11. Removed hose from old intake and connected to same location on new intake. Repeated for all 3 hoses.
12. Using pliers, pinched the clips and moved to the end of the new intake valve. Did the for all 3 hoses.
13. Using Phillips screw driver, screwed in the new intake valve where the old intake valve was located.
15. Inserted the wiring connects into new intake valve.
16. Reconnected water hoses back into washer machine (after inspecting and cleaning plastic strainer traps)
17. Turned on water faucets
18. Plugged in washer.
19. Ran an empty load for a cycle.
20. Did not fail.
21. Reattached top to washer. Laying down an inch from front and push forward to hear a click or lock. Then screwed in the 2 screws.
22. Pushed washer back into original location.

We have already performed 1/2 dozen loads.

replaced switch as shown in the video...Worked great

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

just put new part in very simple only problem was shipping yall used fedex went to 4 states and one state twice they finally gave it to USPS so it took almost 9 days to get here

Ordered and replaced the hot and cold inlet valves - followed the instructions off of the video posted on the Part Select website ... completed the repair in less than 10 minutes

Found this part online. I just sets inside, did not click in like the bleach and fabric softener inserts. Think is ok, seems to work

Replaced it

To fix the problem, I simply removed the top cover of the washing machine by removing the two screws on the back of the machine which allowed me to slide the top back and then I lifted it off. Then I disconnected the hot water hose (after shutting off the valve). Next, I removed the electrical connectors on the old part as well as the hose attached to it and unscrewed the old part and removed it and put the new one on and reattached the hoses and the electrical. It worked like a charm. It took me perhaps 10 minutes total.

Looked at videos on line at Parts Select. Very easy instructions to watch and follow. After unplugging the washer all I had to do was turn off the cold water valve, remove the supply line, two screws to get the lid off, then two screws to remove the valve and disconnected the electric connector tabs. Took pliers to back the three hose clamps off. The best tip was replacing each hose back on the valve one at a time to prevent mix ups. I did everything in reverse after installation. I ran one short cycle to test the leak. Works perfectly!
A tip I saw on You Tube - I have vinyl flooring in my wash room and a repair guy said to spray a light shot of WD 40 under the feet. It doesn’t take much. Man, my washer slid like it was on wheels! I wiped away any excess spray and let it dry under the feet. I’m not sure how this works on other types of floors.

After I watched the repair video for the part, it was a snap. It went exactly as the video described the steps. Hardest part was moving the washer to get behind it.

As per instructions.

Followed video provided by this site. Very install, less than 30 minutes.