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F1253FDS (ABWEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the F1253FDS
121 - 135 of 159
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the water inlet was leaking
pulled off top of washer to get at the inlet valve disconnect two hoses take two screws out and then you put it back together the way you took apart and your done
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve - Hot
  • gerald from wis dells, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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rotor assembly stripped. barrel not turning
1.open back of washer with screwdriver. 4 screws total. 2. Remove assembly with 17 mm socket. 3. Install new rotor assembly with socket. 4. Replace back of washer with sscrews. 15 minutes total time.
Parts Used:
Rotor Assembly
  • Gregory from Meridian, MS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Drawer fell onto floor & broke
The drawer was knocked off the top of the washer and hit the floor. One of the two plastic strips in the back that fit into the channel to insert the drawer broke off. Super glue would not keep it together, so I ordered a new drawer. So glad this site had it...LG does not sell replacement parts, and I did not want to buy a new machine for such a minor problem!
Parts Used:
PANEL ASSEMBLY,DRAWER
  • Wendy from Madison, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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h2o filled w/o stopping
removed top, removed 2 screws, replace part. did not fix problem, the real problem was the water inlet valve, works great, easy fix. thanks
Parts Used:
Pressure Switch Assembly
  • sherman from BROKEN ARROW, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Hot Water Inlet valve (solinoid valve leaking)
Removed lid (top of washer), then ran a cycle in normal to identify the failed component, then noticed the water inlet valve assembly for the hot water was leaking, used my pc and went to website Part Select and found to failed part on the parts break down item, then ordered the part, the part "Valve Assembly Inlet" for the hot water arrived 2-days later, replaced valve in less than 5-minutes, disconnected push on electrical connector, unscrewed the valve assembly inlet and installed the new valve assembly inlet, very easy
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve - Hot
  • MARVIN from MARYVILLE, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Washer drum slipped during spin cycle
Opened rear compartment of washer and observed problem with drum shaft slipping inside of plastic motor assembly. The plastic teeth used to secure drum shaft were worn down. The part I needed was sent as an assembly but should have been sent separately for a much lower cost? The new part looked like it was of a sturdier design. All in all I saved hundreds of dollars repairing the washer my self. The woman I spoke to on the phone was really nice and very helpful.
Parts Used:
Rotor Assembly
  • Alan from Elmwood Park, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Bellows had developed a small hole
Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!
Parts Used:
Tub-to-Pump Drain Hose
  • Verle from Malcolm, NE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Washer will not drain, bad noise coming from bottom front of washer
unplug washer and disconnect inlet and outlet hoses. drain water from washer (about 2 gallons) by removing lint screen from front of washer. lay washer on side (I used a blanket to avoid damaging the paint) remove all the phillips head screws in the plastic bottom and the metal feet of the washer. Gently pull the bottom of the washer off. There are 3 shock absorber looking things that pull apart and are greasy. Try not to mess with them much. Just pull gently, and they slide apart. cut the zip ties holding the wires to the washer bottom piece. remove the screw in the lint screen area and gently pull the recessed plastic thing out the front of the washer. remove the screws holding the pump assembly on the front of the washer. Remove the three screws holding the pump assembly on the outlet pipe manifold. Installation is the reverse of removal, take care to put the shock absorber looking things back in gently and together at the same time when reinstalling the plastic bottom of the washer.
Parts Used:
Washing Machine Drain Pump
  • James from Kingman, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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bearing went out in pump
Tilt the unit back. Remove screws that hold the clean out. Disconnect the electric plugs and hoses. Remove pumps and housing. Change out pumps. Put back together reverse order
Parts Used:
Washing Machine Drain Pump MOTOR ASSEMBLY,AC,PUMP
  • JOE from ARANSAS PASS, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Not pumping out water
Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.
Parts Used:
Washing Machine Drain Pump
  • Patrick from Ronkonkoma, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Pool of water under washer after a run
Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.
Parts Used:
Tub-to-Pump Drain Hose
  • Daraius from AUSTIN, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Kept getting suck on rinse cycle, filing machine with water, valve was sticking in the open position.
Replaced the 4 valave unit and single hot water valve at same time. Unplug unit, remove two plastic tabs on back of washer, push on top from front to losen. tur off both water valves, remove two screws holding valves in place, mark with tape which hose goes to which vavle, < back left, back righ, front left, front right, and write in electrical plugs the same. Hot water vavle is by itself, mark it anyway>. install new vavles, replace hoses, and eletrical plugs on top. Make sure clamps are all the way forward and tight! > leave top off. turn on water and electrical, run one short cycle to check for operation and leaks, if ok, replace top and back screws. Simple job, saved me $375.00 doing it myself.
Parts Used:
Inlet Valve Assembly Water Inlet Valve - Hot
  • Antonie from Orlando, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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not pump water out
Basic skill
Parts Used:
Washing Machine Drain Pump
  • dung from nashville, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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OE CODE - The washer machine would not drain
After checking for blockage on the drain hose and checking on any blockage on the bottom left corner filter and not finding anything i decided to open the machine. Everything suggested a broken drain pump
ITEM
PS3579318 Drain Pump and Motor Assembly which is located on the bottom left corner also and it attaches to the bottom left corner filter. And voila! The machine did not work! Now started throwing a FE code and it would not fill up. Well, the new pump was stuck! All i had to do was to stick my fingers in the bottom left corner filter orifice and move the fan like devices that make the new drain pump work, that did it! Be careful not to do it while the machine is pluged in, those plastic blades may hurt your fingers. To reach the drain pump you have to take the top, control board and front (door and gasket) of the machine off, about one hour labor.
Parts Used:
Washing Machine Drain Pump
  • Gustavo from Ukiah, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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door would not lock
Used a screwdriver to carefull lift the top of washer. Reached in and unplugged old assembly from wir harness. Unscrewed old one (2 screws) from washer screwed in new one connected it to wire harness. Closed top of washer and plugged it in and it was ready to use. I am a 53 year old female and had never done this before. The repair shop wanted $150 to install part plus the part cost more from them. I' m sure a guy could do the job in 15 minutes or less.
Parts Used:
Door Lock Assembly
  • Eileen from Allen Park, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the F1253FDS
121 - 135 of 159