F1201FDU7 LG Washer - Instructions

When to utube typed in my problem, very easy fix

The repair went good but time consuming. I replaced both inner and outer tub bearings along with the tub seal. I removed top by removing two screws in back then pulling back slighty then lifting up. I removed soap tray by pressing down tab and pulling out. Loosened soap dispenser and folded back on top. I removed control panel then front door panel. Remove back panel. Remove motor and shocks and hanging springs which there are two. Disconnect the hoses attached to tub then pull the tub. Remove screws holding the tub halves together. Use punch to remove bearings. NOTE: If you put the bearings in the freezer prior to installing, they go in much easier. I used the old bearing, set it on the new bearing then I tapped the old bearing so not to damage new bearings. I replaced the seal then put everything back together. Not difficult but time consuming.

I followed the video on the PartSelect web site for this repair and it went just fine. I also replaced the drain hose while I had everything apart. Thank you PartSelect, same day shipping. Arrived within 3 day's and your video was spot on.

Followed the video instructions provided.

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.

I BROUGHT UP THE YOUTUBE REPAIR VIDEO AND FOLLOWED IT STEP BY STEP AND WORKED OUT GREAT THANKS

Pull the washer away from the wall to get behind it. Unplug the electrical power cord from the wall. I removed the top cover by unscrewing the 2 screws on the back of the washer. Slide the cover back about 1-2 inches towards the back of the washer and then lift the cover up and remove. It might be a little tight to slide back, you may need to wiggle the cover side to side or give it a good smack. The water inlet valve is directly at the top inside of the washer. I saw a slow leak dripping from the hot water inlet valve onto the back side of the drum. Turn off the water supply valve at the wall and then unscrew the supply water hose from the water inlet valve at the back of the washer. Disconnect the electrical connector and water hose from the inlet valve inside the washer. From the outside of the washer on the back, remove the screws holding the water valve and lift out the valve. Install in reverse order.

Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

The machine was making a grinding noise instead of draining. I spoke with the LG rep on the 800 line and was told to call a repair man. The Parts select diagram helped me to identify the part I needed. It was clear enough that I was confident it was the right one. Three days and six screws later the machine was working fine.

Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.

I watched a video of how to replace the pump and it showed taking the top and front off to get to it. I actually found this could be done by removing the back panel from the washer. There were two hose clamps you have to squeeze and slide up and two wires going to the pump. There are three screws holding the pump that need to be removed from the front of the washer. Once these are removed all you have to do is push a tab down and the motor slide right out. The pump assembly can also be reached from the bottom of the washer.

The bellows hose on the bottom of the tube had worn through where it flexed. This was an easy job except for the long reach you had to make under the washer to reach the hose clamps that held the part in place. These were spring loaded clamps which were easy to remove with pliers. I replaced them with ones that could be tightened with a socket wrench since it was hard to replace the sprung clamps.

This was very easy to instal. The aplaiance repair co. wanted $240 my LG is six years old and would rather buy a new one if I had to spend that much, so I gave it a shot and it took me 20 min to install the part. Told my wife she owed me $ 180 for my labor.

The problem ended up being the pump motor which discharges water from the washer. I figured out this was the problem after trying several things. I determined the motor was fine when it was empty. With the unit turned off, if you can rotate the tube with a quick spin and it lights up, probably this is OK. Then I tried to run it again and it went about 1/2 way through the cycle and stopped and started humming again. So I started emptying out the water, which I noticed was about 5 gallons which is way too much. so once empty, I took the pump off by turning unit on side. There are two hoses with hose clamps, and a few screws. Be careful to mark which wire plugs onto which side of the pump. One is brown and one is black. If you take the pump housing off, with the 3 screws, you should be able to pull the motor apart. Mine had water and scum from the wash in it, which was a dead give away that it was the problem.