EW30MC65PSB Electrolux Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

I took off the keypad panel,then plugged it back in,turned it on for 2 seconds so I can see where the spark was comming from,saw it was the capacitor, unpluged it while it was on so the voltage would drain,took out the capacitor ordered it a few days later,put it back in, now the wife is happy,and when she is happy,I'm happy :-)

This is an OTR microwave oven, needs to be removed to diagnose problem. I did not diagnose problem properly, I searched online for possible causes, read that (99%)percent of the time the interlock switch was bad and replacement should solve my problem. It was also stated to be an easy fix,15- 45 minutes depending on ability. I ordered the relay switch. Took the oven down then removed outer shell. With my multimeter I began to test, fuses(2), interlock switches(3)and transformer. 3 interlock switches were ok, fuses were fine, and had power to the transformer, meter could not read output of transformer because of high voltage, (2300v). I'm down to magnetron (about a hundred bucks) or the touch pad/ circuit board. I have a countertop micro that I'm putting in place of the OTR. As far as Partselect, my item was shipped and delivered on time, instructions for changing that part was quite accurate. Would order from here again, just do my homework first.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

I have a Kenmore elite built-in microwave. I started by opening the microwave and removing the small trim frame from the rectangle surrounding the window which covers the screws needed to be removed as part of latch head install process. But then went and removed every other screw from the frame which holds the door onto the hinge bracket. It is important not to remove all of the screws because the door will fall off the frame and shatter on the floor. My particular microwave when the door is open is right about 32 inches off the ground. I found two kitchen chairs that were about 32 inches high on the backs and positioned them where they supported the door when it was open and horizontal. Once I did this, I was able to unscrew the remainder of the screws, holding the door on the frame and slowly released it while holding onto the door frame, so it did not slam – it is spring loaded. I moved the door to another location and moved to replace the latch head on the upper right side by removing the broken latch, head retaining spring with a small pair of pliers and leaving it hanging on the door anchor, and then using a Philips screwdriver to take the broken latch off. I basically repeated these procedures in reverse, putting the new latch head on, connecting the spring, and then supporting the door frame with the chairs holding it just high enough to lower the hinge frame and line up to screw holes so I could start putting the screws back in. When I was done, I inserted the window frame insert cover over the screws and tested the microwave. It worked flawlessly.

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

Remove two screws in back to release the top.
Lift the top from the back and pull backwards to remove.
Open washer door and unscrew two screws to release the switch.
Reach down inside from the front and remove the switch.
Unplug the switch and replace with the new one. Reverse the process to install.
I found it easier to have someone hold the switch while I screwed it back in.

I purchased one relay switch (there are three) took one out one by one and replced it with the new one and tested it each time until it worked. Super easy and saved me hundreds of dollars by doing this myself.

Removed unit from above stove removed outer housing, interior shield and tested the 4 door relays. One was not working. Replaced parts and re installed unit over stove.

Much like the other post: 1. Removw vent case on top (3 screws) 2. Remove cover with control buttons (1 screw). 3. Removed bottom relay switch and replaced. Tight working space so be patient. Took 15 minutes Needle nose pliers used to crimp connector onto switch

I managed to move the auger far enough to allow me to insert the cup-drive and then realign the auger with the new cup-drive. I also have had one to break very shortly after installing it. This is my second part to replace and this one went really smooth, since I understood that the initial parts installation instructions did not apply on my ice maker.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

I found the part online with a diagram of the oven with the broken part listed as a replaceable item. I ordered the part and in two days my oven was back cooking like new. Thanks