ETS22XBPBRCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug the unit and pull away from wall. Remove the screws from the lower back panel. Locate the condenser fan motor and the bracket holding it in place. Unplug the wire clamp connecting the motor to the power supply. Remove the screw holding the bracket onto the condenser coil. Pull the entire assembly from the unit. Pull the fan off the old motor. Remove the motor bracket from the larger bracket. Replace the motor. Assemble again with the rubber grommets, motor bracket, and fan. Reinstall larger bracket, now with new motor, into the unit. Ensure the bracket prong is received into the coil bracket. If all aligns well, screw the bracket back onto the coil. Plug the new motor into the power supply. Temporarily plug in refrigerator to confirm motor functions. Unplug again and replace lower panel.

Find a video on youtube. Remove 6 screws. Pull the Styrofoam part up before removing the panel. Unplug and Remove the fan assembly.
You will need a NUT DRIVER to take the bracket off the backing plate.
I ordered the red grommet and the red bumper. You need TWO of the red grommets if that is the problem. My freezer was about 8 years old, and the grommets were worn and compressed, the bumper was not. Replacing these parts DID NOT FIX the problem. I needed a new motor.
I probably disassembled and reassembled this stuff about 7 times before I got all the parts and tools. Each time I had to unload the freezer.

I replaced the compressor fan.

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

I removed the top shelf and then the existing slide. I replaced the slide and then the shelves.

The only hitch was the need for a special screwdriver which cost $5.

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

remove shelf above tray to access rail. remove broken rail. use screws from broken rail to attach rail to shelf.

I sent back the other one with the print out for FedEx that your company e-mail to me and then i put the new one in, very easy took a few min's
Thank you Mr. Phillip Lewis

Simply followed the video -- VERY helpful... BUT: getting the bottom tab to re-insert into the holder after the motor was replaced was VERY difficult...!!! Until I discovered that I could move the refrigerant coil (upon which the tab mounts) just enough that I could get the tab inserted...!!! "Twas NOT as simple as it looked on the film...

Being able to move both the fan motor holder (with the tab) AND the coil made it happen, easily...

You guys ought to win some sort of website Emmy. I found your site as I was searching for a new motherboard, thinking this was the cause of the temperature control problem. I took the time to go through the little diagnostic process you offer and I discovered that the much less expensive defrost thermostat was more often the root cause of the problem ($8 vs $160 for the new motherboard). The part arrived within 3 days and the installation video was enormously helpful. Removal of the rear panel was more difficult than suggested on the video. I'd suggest removing the freezer light fixture before trying to remove the panel as it is nearly impossible to bend the metal panel around the light bulb bases. Anyway, the whole job cost me about $16 for parts and delivery and the fridge is running fine. The combination of the diagnostic tool and the installation video were fantastic...far beyond expectations.