ESS23XGSCWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The trouble shooting information on the web site indicated that the damper door within the climate control unit may be broken. This was easily confirmed and the replacement of the climate control unit immediately returned the food locker temperatures to the digital electronic thermostat settings. The part has an improved ventilation gasket interface between the food locker and freezer. The unit works perfectly again, and the food locker temperature is exactly what the thermostat setting is.

Disconnect main water line from behind refrigerator
Remove bottom panel from refrigerator
Disconnect hose from water valve
Remove metal hose guard from top left of refrigerator Carefully remove plumbers putty from around filter hose (you will be reinstalling this putty around new hose assembly)
Inside refrigerator remove MWF water filter and guard, and then remove two screws holding filter assembly in place (this requires socket set with 4” extension bar)
Carefully pull filter hose assembly towards you from front of refrigerator. Once assembly is out remove Styrofoam cover from old assembly and install on new assembly
To reassemble, simply follow this process in reverse. Good luck

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

First, I turned off the water supply line to the refrigerator from the house at the wall and unplugged the power cord. Secondly, I removed the small screws that hold the piece of cardboard over the opening in the lower left corner (rear of the refrigerator) by the compressor. Thirdlyl, I removed the other end of the water line where it attaches to the water valve with an adjustable end wrench. Then I removed the small screw that holds the double water outlet valves to the refrigerator frame. I then removed the water valve by pulling it out of the rear of the refrigerator, unplugged the electrical connections, and cut the water lines where they enter the valves. I then plugged the electrical connectors into the new valves and pushed the hoses into their respective openings. These are one-way connectors - once you push them in (firmly) they will not leak or come back out. All I did then was replace the valve and secure it with the one little screw and then replace the cardboard piece onto the rear of the refrigerator. Don't forget to turn the water supply back on. That's it!!

Easy fix, but they don't give you plenty of wire to work with. When I pulled the switch out it only had about an inch of wire that came with it. meaning if I didn't have a grasp on the wires as I was removing the switch they would have slipped back up the opening

It was very simple! I assessed the situation and gathered my tools for the job. I used a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and electrical tape. I used the flat head screwdriver to release the switch from its location, the pliers to take the electrical terminations apart. I taped the wires individual so that I would not loose them in the door, also not to short them out. I then unpackaged the new switch to install. Pulled the tape off one of the of the terminals while holding the wire, and attached it to the new switchs terminal post. Did the same with the other wire, then snapped the new switch back into place. Immediately had results. I opened and closed the door a few times in amazement that something so annoying such as a light in your fridge could be so easy to fix. Most of all, having a business to rely on to find the part and deliver in a timely fashion. Thank you Partselect.com, you were outstanding!!!

pulled out refer. found leak at corner lower back, pulled off lower cover. found valve for icemaker leaking. looked in owners/inst guide, pulled up on computer, identified part, called, order overnight part. recieved part & installed, repair complete & successful.

Repair man said we needed a new circuite board, which I ordered and installed, however didn't fix the problem. Freezer was still freezing up, so I ordered a new defrost heater and thermostate. Installed yesterday, so it will be a week or so before I can check to see if this repair is working. However, replacement of these parts was very easy, and online ordering and delivery service the best. Keeping fingers crossed this repair does the trick. Best, Mike

Shut off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cover. (6 screws -- nutdriver will come in handy). Removed screw securing water valve to frame (again the nutdriver). Unplugged red and white power connectors to solenoids. Using channel locks, loosened nut holding main water supply to valve and removed. Depressed compression fittings to valve and pulled out plastic water lines that supply water dispenser and ice maker. Reconnected main water supply to new part. Pushed both water lines into respective fittings of new part. Reconnected power supply to solenoids. Attached new part to frame with screw. Replaced back cover. Turned water supply back on. Plugged refrig. back in. Problem solved! Savings = $300!

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

1) Unplug Refrigerator. Remove all shelves and light shield in the freezer.
2)Remove panel covering refrigeration coils inside freezer in back. Two hex head screws w/nut driver.
3)Remove the defrost heater using phillips screw driver. Two screws.
4)Unplug two quick disconnect stakons and wires from heater.
5)Plug the wire coming down the right side into one side of the new heater and plug the shipped white wire into the other quick disconnect spade at the heater.
6)Install the new dual element defrost heater into the same place where the old was. Connections to the right.
7)Route the wire that was on the left across the top of the coils and down the right side.
8)Bring the existing wire from the left side down the right side and the white wire up the right side. Wires should not be tight at all and do not remove the tape at the stakon.
9)Now wires need to be cut (if necessary)and crimped together in the shipped stakon. This stakon looks like a wire nut.
10)Wires should be tucked gently into the styrofoam up and down the right side. Wirenut should be positioned so that water can not collect in it.
11)Replace the panel over the cooling coils.
12)Plug Refigerator back into the wall outlet. Put shelves and light shield back in.
13)My refrigerator is now working without a problem. It's been est two weeks.
Ice maker is also working correctly.

Before replacing the top filter housing, ensure the inlet water valve is operational. Replacing is a straight forward process. Unhook the houses from the inlet water valve in the back of the refrigerator. Remove and replace the top filter housing and ensure you replace the sealant using plumbers putty or sealant dicor butyl putty.

It was a simple remove and replace. The new part fits directly in place of the old part. Its a pain to remove the light but once you get the light out the job is simple. The light must be pried out gently. It is snapped in place toward the air inlet cover and needs to be pried loose. Once the light is out there are 4 screws holding the air inlet cover in place. Remove the 4 screws and unfasten the wiring harness. Once the screws and wiring harness are disconnected remove the old part. Reinstall the new part in reverse order.

I pulled-out & unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the screws to gain access through the lower back panel. The water valve is on the left side as I face the back of the fridge. It has one screw holding it to the frame of the fridge. Once it is free, the main water hose is unscrewed and the two out-let lines were pulled-out. If your valve was not ruined prior to this, it is ruined now, as the lines will not re-seat. Then everything is done in reverse order. I did cut 1/2 inch off of the two lines so that they reseat into the new valve. Just push into the valve and they are good.

1. Removed the back panel of the fridge to get access to the inlet water valve.
2. Removed black poly water line from valve (pull back on white ring where line is attached and pull the line out)
3. Removed the inlet tube from top-back of fridge (where it goes into the ice make). use putty knife to get under the sticky white gasket beneath the black oval housing and pull the tube out form the back of the fridge.
4. Replace the water line with new part taking care to properly seat the line into the the bottom water valve and pushing the water tube into the hole for the ice maker.

Note: Be sure to take off the protective covering from the white - sticky grommet and push to adhere to metal on fridge.

to be safe - use a bit of clear silicone chaulking round the perimeter of the grommet and push to tighly bond the water inlet tube to the fridge.

The reason for this - is that if you do not get a good bond using the white - sticky gormmet alone - you may have the water tube inside the ice maker freeze up.

Also once the new water line is installed be sure to secure the line to the metal back of the fridge - so the line will not move. some fridges come with metal hose clamps to do this - otherwise use duct tape