EIMED55IIW0 Electrolux Dryer - Instructions

You must disconnect appliance from the gas, water and vent to access the back. Remove the top of the dryer which then allows you to remove the rear panel by removing all screws, You may also have to remove 2 electrical connections to get this panel off. Now you have access to the air duct. To remove the air duct there are 3 screws inside the dryer and 2 screws on the lower part of the air duct. One of the lower screws is facing toward the inside of the dryer and you will need a 12"+ screwdriver to be able to remove. Once you do all that install the new part and repeat steps in reverse.

We followed a YouTube video and did the repair ourselves over an afternoon. We had one screw leftover (?) but everything went back together and now the dryer works like a dream! We bought a PartSelect part because we don't want to have to do this very often! ??

I used utube on how to dismantle the dryer. In fact I use a video created by
Parts select. The hardest part was getting a spring that holds the tensioner on the drum belt.

I had difficulty getting the old part out to get the new one in. I just about had to take the gram apart to get to everything.

followed the instruction on you tube, the part was exact, there was nothing to guess, basically you take the whole front off of the dryer, that in itself is easy (follow instructions), once you get to the element, just plug and play. the worst part was a set screw in the back that did take some patience, but finally did get it in. I am not a mechanic in the least, trust me, if I can do it then anyone can. you will need regular Philips screw driver and one short one, really short, mine is about 2 inches in length, also I used manual one, allot of plastic, so I would not recommend electric drill or electric driver. also a good pair of plyers, but small not large.

Once we got the dryer out of the cramped where we could work on it, the project went a little quicker. I'd recommend using paper plates/bowls, that you label, to hold all the screws for each piece you remove off the back. It doesn't seem like it will be a lot, but we had at least 20-30 screws in 4-5 different sizes. Unlike someone else's install, we had to completely pull the white back panel off, as well as the main back cover, due to one screw holding the air duct from the inside of the dryer compartment (meaning we couldn't reach everything from the back). Getting this screw out was a challenge and seemed like a huge design flaw, but if you can't get to that screw, the old air duct isn't coming out. There are 2 other screws holding the air duct but they're easy to reach once the back panel is off.
Once that was taken out the process was straightforward, we just took our time reattaching everything step-by-step. Now our dryer works like new.

Inserted lint filter into slot.
Replacement is exact match to original filter.

removed top and front of dryer then removed the drum to expose the blower housing. then removed the damaged unit and replaced with the new unit . Then put it back together. The hardest part for me was putting the drum back in.

I purchase one tube of heat resistant adhesive but I change both seals if you could afford to buy a second to I would recommend you do so the one tube just made it. For instructions on how to prepare the drum for installing new seals I went on YouTube

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

Turn off water, un-plug refrigerator, dis-connect water, un-screw bracket, remove valve and replace same way...Very easy

Fast and easy. Started by pulling out refrigerator and unplugging it. Water valve for ice maker was already turned off due to leaking. Disconnected old valve, detached old valve, reattached new valve and reconnected water lines. Bled the lines and turned back on. Make sure temp in freezer stays at recommended temps for ice making.

as on the video. so easy. took longer to clean-up

i simply took the old one out and replaced it with the new one. it fit perfectly.