EGR3000EP2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

This surface burner is generically made for multiple manufacturer's stoves so the gas tip does not align with this model precisely. In order to make the gas tip aligns, one needs to bend the aluminum tube to an angle where it would fit to the stove housing or otherwise the gas outlet would not release the gas exactly to the right spot. This requires using either a professional aluminum bending tool or we will need to manually bend the tube slightly without causing kinking on the tube. Putting kinking on the tube would cause blockage of gas. I think your website should publish this so whoever buying this would know the risk as aluminum is a very soft metal and you can easily wreck the tube wasting the time and money. Other than that, the item works quite well.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

Removed oven shelves, removed lower cover, removed heating element, removed lower drawer and unplugged element.

Opened the back and installed the new one. The only problem was pealing the paper of the old one that shows the labels. Strongly recommend to buy that part also. The job will be more neat.

the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.

Remove interior bottom of oven, remove igniter screws, unplug igniter. reinstall igniter.

Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.

I got really great customer service on finally getting the right part. It came really fast it fit perfect but the cap is a high gloss black instead of a flat black. I will need to call customer service again to see if they can the correct color this time.
Otherwise everything was great!

Part came as ordered. Hardest part was fitting plastic wiring harness through the hole with 2 layers of steel with insulation in between. Used electrical tape to stiffen the end about an inch or 2 back from harness. Job done, problem solved

had to take back off of oven because of the connector and the plug end insert had the wrong pin so i had to take it apart and use old ones then i put the assembly in /and put oven back together

The repair was pretty straight forward. I simply removed the old igniter, then I snipped the wires. Using the included wire nuts I spliced the old wires with the new. The longest time was spent looking for my wire strippers. I must say that the customer service was very quick and responsive. I received the part but it was broken. One call to customer service and the new part arrived the next day. Great job!!

remove old burner, put new in place

Easy

Got the general idea off a u-tube video. Very simple and would have been even easier had I used a 1/4 in nutdriver instead of socket. Removed 2 screws (flathead) on the lower cover of oven. Removed 1 nut holding shield. Removed 1 nut holding protective trap door on rear, pulled coupling through hole and disconnected. Removed 2 nuts holding ignitor. That's it. Replace everything in sequence and your done.

Remove the sheet metal that covers the burner and the igniter. For me this was two screws located in the rear of the oven. Two 1/4 inch screws held the igniter in place. I then cut the wires on the faulty igniter as close to the porcelin as possible. I cut the clip off of the new igniter and stripped the ends of all 4 wires, splicing then together with the ceramic wire nuts that were included in the kit. I fed the excess wire to the rear of the stove and reattached the new igniter to its mounting bracket. Replaced sheet metal. Plugged the unit into the outlet and away it went. Worked great.