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EG1120 Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the EG1120
106 - 120 of 151
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The blower wheel was busted because somebody ran the dryer without the lint filter in. A cord and a fork were caught in it!
Fairly easy to repair once I figured out how to get it apart. The amazing part of this was searching the web for the part. I found PartSelect, ordered it at about 2pm Eastern time and the part arrived the next day! I will definitely use this service again.
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel
  • David from Pottstown, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
1 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer not heating up
removed old element, relaced with new element , thermostat dryer works better than it has in along time
Parts Used:
Heating Element Kit - Red Dot
  • april from lexinton, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dryer started squeaking and eventually stopped tumbling
First I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. Pryed up the top of the dryer at the front corners to free the front panel. Removed the two screws at the bottom front of the front panel. Then disconnected the three electrical connections for the door button. Put the front panel to the side. Then took out lint tray and then removed four screws that hold the lint blower piece and put it aside. Then I could see the motor and the idler assembly is on the back of it. If you have a camera take a picture of how the belt is on the pulley. If not you can draw a general idea of the direction. I reached back and slipped the belt off the idler pulley. Removed two screws from the front bottom of motor fork .Removed two screws from a small electrical hook up thats on the front of the motor and removed it. At this point I could just slide the motor out. With a rachet and a regular wrench I removed the small bolt holding the arm on. Put on the new arm. Slid the motor back in and reconnected the belt. Put everything back together in the same way. Yeah it works. I am a 58 year old woman and this job required no brute strength. Don't be intimidated its really not that difficult to fix it yourself.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Lever
  • Bonnie from Dexter, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
3 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer Didnt Turn On
First - I did some research on line as to the possible problem with this dryer.
I had already taken the front apart before, so I knew what was needed to remove the door and front.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the dryer door in place with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the two screws on the opposite side of the door also. Place the door out of the way. The front panel of the dryer now tilts forward. The front panel sits on two clips, tilt forward and lift out of place. The door switch has two prongs that hold it in place, pinch the prongs and the switch slides out. Disconnect the two wires on the switch and connect the wires to the new switch. The new switch slides into place. I tested the new switch before I put it all back together. Took me no longer than 15 minutes.
Parts Used:
Door Switch Kit
  • Philip from Swansea, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
25 of 557 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer not staying hot
Ordered thermal fuse and cycling thermostat
Parts Used:
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • Lee from St. Louis, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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broken belt
I don't have the model number right now, but you video was fantastic.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • Garold from Bothell, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Our dryer would not ignite, so I figured it was the radiant flame sensor. Well, I out that in and still nothing. I found out that the Tube Burner was also burned off on the flame end, by the igniter. I also ordered that part. installed it, and it works beautifully.
On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of the burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.
Parts Used:
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • Rodney from Zimmerman, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dryer would not come on
When the dryer stopped working, I checked the two switches to see if they were good. The start button checked out OK but the switch on the door read bad. Ordered the part with the part number and put on when it arrived. Just a matter of disconnecting and reconnecting three wires. Very simple
Parts Used:
Door Switch Kit
  • Newt from Daphne, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
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Dryer would heat up for a short time, then shut off
First I replace the Radiant Flame Sensor, but the problem remain. Then replace the two coils and the igniter. Dryer works like it should. If I were to do it over, I would have replaced all 4 components to start with. Thanks for good advice and great service.
Parts Used:
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • David M from Watertown, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dryer would not heat. No flame or gas
Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at top. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.
Parts Used:
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • Diane from Huntington Beach, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Clothes were not getting dry enought
Unplugged dryer from power source, used putty knife to release latches that hold top on, tilted the top out of the way, unplugged door lite, located the radiant switch, removed 1 screw,then undid 2 wires & lifted out switch. Reversed procedure plugged in dryer....wa la had dried a large load of clothes, took 1/3 the time to dry clothes at last. Thanks "PartSelect"
Parts Used:
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • Michael from Royal Palm Beach, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Flame when out to fast. Dryer did not get hot enough.
Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.
Parts Used:
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • Neil from Harwich, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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hi temp therm unit
Well I first attemptede the repair wthout following the online instuction's, I dont recomend it.After some 30 minutes wasted trying to fit my hands in and droping the screw a couple of times, I decided it was time to remove the duct that supplies the air thru the lint trap, after that the repair was a breeze
Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat
  • John from West Milford, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dryer wouldn't tumble
I consulted the instructional video before starting to take the dryer apart. My model is older than the one used in the video but it was still very helpful. Putting the belt on was fairly easy; however, I didn't know I also needed a rear drum wheel as well so while the belt is installed, the dryer still doesn't tumble when anything is in it. Off balance without 2nd rear drum wheel.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • Glenda from Walters, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dryer would stat but no heat
The part came in very quickly. If you know how to remove the front panel, it is very easy to repair. The hard part is to diagnose the problem. The first thing to check is the igniter. If it comes on then you look for faulty limit switches. If you have lots of training in electronics and appliance repair this is very easy, if you do not I would not try this. I have 40 years in the repair business, It still took me 1hr. to find the problem. the switch was intermitted, one time the dryer would work the next time it would not. Good luck and happy repairs.
Parts Used:
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • Quinn from Los Alamos, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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All Instructions for the EG1120
106 - 120 of 151