E32AF75FPS2 Electrolux Freezer - Instructions

Old one bad, relpaced with a new one.

The part i recieved, from parts select was a larger in circumfrence (<1/4) than the original. However i was not aware of this until after i treid to repair it.

I removed the broken fan from the condenser. This was very sipmle.

When i pluged the refridgerator back in to the outlet the fan tried to start up but soon began to make aloud noise, due to there not being enough clerance.

Turned off water to inlet valve. Unbolted valve from back of unit, disconnect water supply line from valve, disconnected water line to ice maker. Put on new compression ring around water supply line. Pressed ice maker line into new valve, installed valve back on unit, then connected main supply line to valve. Works like a charm.

Remove Ice container - loosen 2 Phillips screws -unplug electrical plug by squeezing sides- lift old icemaker up off the screws and remove - Plug in the new ice maker - place new icemaker so water inlet goes into new ice maker, slide up over existing screws and slide down - tighten screws and replace ice container

This did not fix the problem. Call a repairman and he cannot come until 9/11. Food is staying frozen. Alarm sounds for awhile and then shuts off for a bit.

Unplugged the freezer. Located the Run Capacitor (next to the compressor). Removed the wire holding bracket, removed the Run Capacitor from the Start Relay. Installed the NEW Capacitor, re-installed the holding bracket. Plugged the unit in, looking at the display for the proper start-up sequence data. All is good - freezer operating for another 10+ yrs. NOTE: When removing the Run Capacitor, beware the COMPRESSOR could be HOT to the touch.

Unscrewed (loosen) screws lifted unit out unplugged electrical connection. plugged in unit hung on screws tightened screws and had ice in less then 1 hour. Rick

I removed the shelves in the freezer, took out the five 1/4" screws and lifted off the cover. It was a simple matter of using a blow drier to remove all the ice, then unplugging the two wires and unclipping the thermostat from the upper cooling tube. Then clipped the new one on and reconnecting the two wires.

Works great!!!

Loosen two screws, unplug power, lift it off, put new one on and make sure water chute is correct place, tighten screws!

Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.

removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!

Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!

I used the tool at Partselect that in theory allows diagnostic of the problem to be repaired. The result was that more tan 90% of the time with the introduced symptoms it had to be the thermostat. I order the part, got it quickly and installed. It did not fix the problem. So, be careful with the diagnostic tool, because it is just based on what most people buy when they have a particular problem. Videos for installation are great. If diagnosis was better, this would be fantastic. In my case there might be a different problem.

loosened 2 screws with 1/4 inch nut driver, disconnected electric connection lifted old ice maker out, replaced it with new one hooked up electric plug tightened 2 screws

Purchased a new ice maker assembly and installed. Very easy