E23CS75DSS7 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Removed exposed screws
2. Removed face plate
3. Disconected wire from switches on face plate
4. Removed screws holding ice/water dispenser
5. Removed screws holding actuator in place
6. Removed wireconnection on actuator (lighted)
7. Replaced broken actuator w/new
8. Replaced all parts in reverse order of removal
9. $300 service call costs me $75 and and 30 minutes of my time. I will always try to fix appliances with the help of PartSelect before calling for service. Thank you!!

First I cleaned out the side door then, removed the three screws on top of the door. Lifted the door off and set it carefully on a kitchen mat.

I had to use the pliers to remove the existing bearing hinge as it had disintegrated in the door. Once it was out the new hinge slid right into place and I reinstalled the door. I had help with the door. It’s much easier with two people to get proper alignment and to hold it in place while you reattach the screws.

I would have to say the hardest part of this repair was cleaning out the refrigerator.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

pulled out the old assy and replace with the new one.

Took drawers out by removing 2 screws on top of rail near front, then popped black plastic cover off in lower right inside cabinet...sensor just un plugged and new one plugged in easily...did not fix problem though...display set at 34 but bottom drawer reads about 40 at best and upper drawer reads around 55...dont think the 3 little fans inside on back wall have been running

Took off Door on Refr. and unscrewed Doorstop,
removed doorstop with broken Bearing and replaced with new Parts. Took about 20 Minutes
including reattaching Door. A 10 year old can do it.

Removed the plastic water tubes cover with a nut driver. Disconnected water hoses. Dropped control box assembly with nut driver. Removed old filter base with phillips screwdriver. Assembly opposite.

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

There is PG and E employee working in one of the electrical post that cause the electric surging,there is a 3 big bang then we smell burning wire.it blew and burned the compressor relay,so what i did is figure it out, all 2 refregirator fan is running the heater is working,but its not cooling, when I touch the compressor there is no vibration,so all i did is removed the compressor relay, and I found out that the wire is burned and melted the connector, i order the relay from parts select and install it.1.remove the capacitor and install it to the new relay. 2.put a new connecrtor from the wire.3. install the compressor relay.easy as 1,2,3.

I ordered a new shelf and I put in, less than minute

We replaced the damper, but it didn't fix the problem. We then purchased and replaced the thermistor. (We had previously replaced the defrost thermostat). The refrigerator side is now cooling better, but not enough. The damper doesn't seem to be opening. So we have now unplugged the damper and left the opening between the refrigerator propped open and the refrigerator side is now cool enough. (We had previously tried keeping the damper open before we replaced the thermistor and the refrigerator didn't cool off. So the thermistor did fix something, but the damper doesn't seem to have been the problem).

We had to unhook & remove icemaker several times, thaw it out & reinstall, it would work for a day or two then overflow. Bought the new ice marker, replace it and it works great....

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

It was simple. I loosened the two screws holding the ice maker unit. Then disconnected the wire harness. Plug in the new ice maker and tighten down the two screws. Held reset button for 15 sec. Done! took ten min. I had a full try of ice the next day!

After taking the complete motor, tray, icemaker, etc out and finding no problem, I then finally checked for power at the connector at the top of the icemaker. I concluded that there was no pwoer going to the motor. I then removed the circiut board and found the relay for the auger was not working. Putting the new board in took 10-15 min. and then the auger started to work.