DLE330RAW Amana Dryer - Instructions

Remove the two screws on the lower front panel. It is easier if you remove the three screws for the venting.I couldn't beleive the amount of lint trapped in there a fire hazard.The heater core is on the lower left corner in the back of the dryer.Remove the two screws and pull the old heater core out.The wires are long enough to pull all the way out.Attach wires from the old one one at a time so you don't mix one up. Then reinstall reversing the above procedure.

Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.

There was no repair, just replacing the old, wornout lint filter. But I wanted to thank you for the ease in finding the part and for your prompt delivery. I really appreciate that. If we need any other parts we will order them from you.
Thanks again!

My repair was very easy, the lint trap just comes assembled like when you buy the dryer. However, I had a hard time finding the dryer part at a store.
Part select had the item, they made it really easy to find online. The best part is how fast I received it! My dryer broke the day before thanksgiving (wednesday) i ordered the part that night and had it saturday morning! and thats with thursday being thanksgiving! I didnt even the pay extra for faster shipping! I would use them again and recommend them!

I watched the repair video and followed the instruction given to replace the belt. The instructions were easy to follow and to the point. The one thing that was not covered was to vacuum the interior prior to closing the dryer up.

All you need for a Maytag is a snub nose Philips screw driver. The screws on the front panel are at the bottom angled down, so a regular length Phillip's won't work. Just unscrew the 2 screws, then lift the panel up and out. Careful not to pull out too far, there are 2 wires attached to the switch. The replacement switch is NOT an exact copy of the old one. My Maytag is over 30 years old and it only had 2 prongs on the switch. The new one has 3. Don't let that throw you. It is the same size. Just attach, 1 wire to the bronze connector & the other to the silver. Push the switch into the door opening, re-attach the door. Total time 20 minutes. Saved well over $100 in a service call. Anyone with an IQ above freezing can do it.

Followed the recommended repair under noisy machine, replacing the 3 recommended parts. The 10 minute video was extremely helpful. Important note: there are two(2) drum support rollers. Also, you definitely need very small C ring pliers and don't forget to label all wires before disconnecting.

I took out 6 screws and replaced the heating element, changed wires and reinstalled

I used a large flat head screwdriver to lift top up, then located 2 screws in the top right and left hand side to remove front. Remove the three Phillip Head Screws that holds the assy in place slide out. Mine had 2 metal pieces with wires. I simply unplugged and took metal pieces and installed in the new assy. Remove excess lint put front back on lowered lid and done! 15-20 minutes

Remove bottom panel from dryer. disconnect wires off of Limit switch. Unscrew 2 screws, remove old switch. Reverse to install. Important, if limit goes bad you need to replace cycling thermostat or chances are the limit will go out again. (Limit on back wall of dryer). The cycling thermostat is right under the lint screen. Remove 3 wires. Remove 2 screws, remove switch. Reverse to install new cycling thermostat. Toatl cost of 2 parts used 16 dollars and change. Thanks

I asked the Gas Co. if they can come out and relight the pilot to my dryer... (which is common for gas dryers) He tested the equipment and told me that the thermostat was the problem. Most places was looking for around $160 for parts and labor. Well, I saved around 130, as I just simply replaced the thermostat. DONE DEAL!

Removed the lower front cover. Unplugged two wires and removed two screws in element, slid element out, removed two contacts and attached them to th new element, slid element back in place, inserted two screws re-attached two wires.
Very easy!

took one out - put new one in

Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!

Jumped out both limits and flame would still go out, grab the 2 plug gas valve solenoid and it would click and the flame glow coil would start back up. I ordered both solenoid valves and the flame would stay on longer but not like it used to. On time drying the flame should stay on all the way thru the cycle unless it got to hot and the cycling stat would take over. Ordered a cycling stat and now it heats like it used to. The clothes are hot now when they come out. If you jump out the limits and still the flame doesn't stay on like it used to, replace the gas valve solenoids and the cycling stat.