DHSR333GA1WB General Electric Dryer - Instructions

TOO EASY to repair. WORKS GREAT>

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!

To get inside the dryer in this model is extreemly difficult. I had to remove the side panel. In order to do this I needed to take off the screws on the back cover side where I needed to replace the cord. Then I needed to remove the screws to take off the top cover, front door, rear panel, trim switch, and end cap. I also had to remove the front door. After that I could tak off the side panel and change the cord.

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

Followed the Part Select video instructions which made the repair really easy!! Thanks for a job well done! ALSO.. the drum wobble was not caused by worn slides and felt. There are three screws holding the drum axle flange. Two of them fell out leaving the drum to flop about as it rotated. So we scavenged some screws from elsewhere on the dryer and problem solved. Once again.. thanks to Part Select for great instructional videos and great customer service ordering parts.

followed instructions that came with kit. The problem was the instructions were not very clear with regard to the "type" of burner. the "A" type with the slot is explained but the "B" without the slot wasen't clearly explained. Even that wasen't too bad (I had to re-do that part), But you need to be 20 years old to see the damned print. I had to use my reading glasses AND a magnifying glass to read them. Also with the "B" type burner, which I have, you simply install the limiter part and you don't need (can't) adjust it.