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DGCIFW3 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the DGCIFW3
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loud squeeling noise
After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.
Parts Used:
Drum Support Bearing
  • Lewis from Thornton, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drum was not revolving
Open the back plate. Broken pulley was already out of place. Put the spring on the pulley and placed it. It took me less than 10 min
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly
  • khalid from HILLSBOROUGH, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Worn out lint screen
uncrew old, take out, put new in, screw in place.
Parts Used:
Lint Screen and Frame
  • Vince from Grayslake, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Broken lint screen
Lifted broken screen out and replaced it with a new one. Extremely simple.
Parts Used:
Lint Screen and Frame
  • Mark from Elizabethtown, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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The clothes were not getting dry, no matter how long they ran
The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.
Parts Used:
M Series Ignition Coil Kit
  • Bruce from madison, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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lint screen was torn to No repair!
/removed the lint screen & tossed in the trash, removed one screw from each side of the frame with a screw driver. Placed the New frame in place
& secured it with the screws that I removed from the old frame, placed the screen in place & that was all there was to it. The total amount of time to remove the old & replace with the new probably took 10-15 min. @ the most. I am so happy to have found the part & was able to replace it. You all are wonderful. Received it in 3 days, WOW!!
Parts Used:
Lint Screen and Frame
  • Ellsie from Rio Chiquito, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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clothes getting stuck in dryercausing brown stains on clothes
Opened top of dryer with screw driver,removed two screws securing the front door. moved door away from dryer. Removed old felt from door,scraped area to remove old glue and felt. Lightly sanded area to clean. Applied new provided glue and let set for 1 minute. put new felt in place and applied three small clamps to hold in place. Waited 1 hour and reassembled dryer.
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide
  • Kenneth C. from Fort Valley, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Our Clothes Would Get Caught In Between The Drum & The Front Cover, Making Marks On The Clothes.
I unpluged the dryer, raised the top cover up, removed 2 two screws & pulled front cover out. Removed the old seal, cleaned the area & installed the new seal. Reinstalled as new. Very, very easy.
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide
  • EDWARD from EDISON, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer leaving brown spots on clothes
First I raised the top of dryer, then removed 2 screws holding the front of dryer to the sides. removed old drum glide using a putty knife and glued new glide in place with glue provided. replaced front and top. The whole job took about 20 minuets and saved me the cost of new dryer
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide
  • Michael from Smyrna, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer drum upper seal worn
First I removed power from dryer. Then I lifted the lid and removed the 2 screws holding the front onto the dryer. I then used a pair of pliers to grip the seal and help pull it off. Cleaned off old adhesive. Recommend getting GOOP BE GONE. Then apply high temp sealant onto area and place seal on top. Press firmly across it to make sure it is in place. Then put it all back together and your done. Also, if upper seal is worn.recommend ordering lower seal at same time. I didn't and should have. Save yourself from doing this twice.
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide
  • David from Orange Park, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Tumbler not moving
Removed back panel. Popped off top of dryer, then removed front of dryer. Slid belt onto tumbler, put front cover back on, put top back on and adjusted belt frombottom panel cover.
Parts Used:
Drum Belt
  • Francis from Middletown, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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no heat
I lifted the top at the front edge, slid the top back, disconnected the ground wire connected to the top at the rear edge, just slides off.
Then removed the phillips screws on the inside front edge, only one on each side,near top of dryer disconnect the wiring harness at the right side, cut the nylon tie strap holding harness also.
Tip front panel out a little and lift up, comes right off.
The coils are in plain site on the gas valve, remove the wires, and the two screws holding the bracket that holdes them in place, slide the old ones off and start putting back together.
I also used a vacume and cleaned all the lint and dust off everything I could, including the air intake at the rear of machine, "Peice of Cake"
Parts Used:
M Series Ignition Coil Kit
  • James from Alpena, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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squeel when turning
lacked instructions. Internet yielded a simple paragraph. Scored real bonus when we discovered the lint build up past the internal filter was approaching catastropic level. Replaced the exhaust tube (plastic) with rigid metal and resolved to disassemble and clean dryer on 2 year cycle in future. Kit just isn't complete without detailed instructions. Parts were complete and sufficient. Local codes have eliminated the plactic exhaust tube. Recommend that all old installs refit to rigid or semirigid before the fire happens!
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Bob from Lynchburg, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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squeaking dryer driving insane
First removed the top of the dryer, then the front of the dryer. Took the plate off the back left of the dryer to disengage the belt off the pulley.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • greg from great cacapon, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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strike broken
popped in one in
Parts Used:
Door Strike
  • Linda from Batesburg, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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All Instructions for the DGCIFW3
91 - 105 of 396