DE23CD Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall so front and back can be accessed. Remove front panel. Remove front drum support. Remove rear access panel. Disengage drive belt from idler wheel. Make careful note of course of belt and which side is "outward". Remove drum through front. Remove Rollers using circlip pliers. Remove nuts behind shafts. Remove shafts. Clean-up area and parts before re-install.

Install new Shafts and nuts. Grease shafts. Install new Rollers, washers and clips. Drape drive belt over drum while reinstalling from front. Remount drive belt over drive and idler pullies from the rear access. During this step it helps to have a helper to position the belt around the drum in correct fore/aft position, lying flat and without twists, smooth side against drum. Install front drom support. Rotate drum to seat belt before closing up. Install rear panel cover. Install Front panel. Plug it in and turn it on for a test.

I had my oldest son who was home from college help me. We removed the front face of the dryer and put the unit on it's back. We removed the door switch and the blower unit. I didn't get a good look at how the belt was routed when we removed the drum but was able to figure it out when we put it back together. Not only was the belt frayed and dry rotted, the blower squirrel cage was free-wheeling on the shaft. I found a tab of metal I was able to insert in the flat of the shaft between the cage bushing and the shaft and I put the squeeze ring and snap ring back in place. We also discovered the source of much of the rattling noise we had grown accustomed to was actually change pieces trapped under the drum ribs. We removed them and put the ribs back in place and we installed the new belt and figured out how the belt routed around the shaft and tensioning pulley. We cleaned all the trapped lint out of the dryer and reassembled the unit. It now works like new. Thanks!

My wife had to help me due to a recent back surgery that I had.

1. Disconnet power. Then if you have room, slide dryer away from wall far enough to tilt it slightly back. We had to do this to remove the two lower front panle philips head scres due to my screwdriver length. If you have a stubby, then you don't need to do this. Remove by pulling out on bottom until the two clips at top disengage from dryer top panel.
2. We removed the four 1/4" head sheet metal screws that hold the front tub support panel (with lint screen). Be carefull of wiring. One moisture sensor wire has to be removed from front cover on lower right side near bottom of tub opening. The remaing wires on left side are long enough to leave them attached and "swing" front panel to your left and in my case, lay it back uprite against the washer front.
3. We slid the tub forward enough to lay old belt down so I could see how it was routed around drive. I wanted to verify paperwork that came with new belt. We then set entire tub out of dryer. You might want to take it to another room if you laundry room is cramped.
4. We removed the nut from back of each support roller shaft, I believe it was 3/8 hex. Then reveresed this procedure to install the new roller and shaft. It was easier to assembly rollers before installing as a unit.
5. I removed the old belt and confirmed its length to new belt. I then installed the new belt over drive sheave and tensioner.
6. We then installed the tub and worked belt around it while keeping it on the drive sheave and tensioner pulley. Had to kind of stick my head into tub to start belt unto it.
7. We checked tub front and rear felt seals and I would recomment\d changing these if your dryer is older than 10 years, we did not have then so kept old ones.
8. We replaced the front tub support and installed the four sheet metal screws.
9. We replaced the front cover and installed the two lower philips head screws.
10. Re-connected power and tested operation.

Unplug the dryer. Remove two screws to remove the front drum housing. Remove 4 screws to remove the front drum housing. The front panel and front drum housing do not need to be unwired to work on the blower. Loosen wire harnesses and move panel and housing out of the way. Remove 2 spring clips holding the blower assembly to the motor shaft. Remove blower. Install new blower and re-assemble in the reverse order. The other stories written on the subject were spot on. This repair also made the clothes dry more quickly. I did not realize that long before the ryer made noise, there was a reduction in air flow. A simple vacuum switch to monitor air flow would tell you when there is a problem or that the filter/duct needs to be cleaned.

There were two screws to remove the front of the dryer. Then 4 screws to remove the front drum support. Remove the drum. Then one nut each on changing the back drum support rollers. Assemble the drum and front support in reverse, and door front, don't forget to put the new drive belt ovre the drum. Then from the rear panel opening, one screw to change the idler assembly. Easy

It took me a lot longer to plan the repair and decide to do it than to do the actual work, knowing what I know now, and having the parts, it would take less than half an hour. As there are no repair manuals available, it took one of these reports to give me the confidence I needed to proceed.
I first found out how to open the front (only two screews on the underneath part of the front cover) and opened it to hear the noise, (just put the cover to one side while still connected to the door switch),,,,, sprayed some WD40 all over the place and the noise went away temporarily (DO NOT DO THIS as the oil will burn off on top of heater unit and smell and smoke). I replaced the roller that the drum sits on (above the heating unit) to the right of the drum and the belt. You need a special tool that fits into the little holes in the ring retainer, I got it at Lowe's ($20 +/-). It is a Channellock plier that opens when you squeeze, you have to change the points (comes with it).
So, here is the squence: remove the front panel, disconnect the swhitch (it took some pulling), set aside; remove front drum assembly (only four screws looking at you) and it comes right out; the Drum is light and comes right out as well, it just sits in a dry channel. The belt will fall off.... take the retainer ring off the roller with the special tool... remove roller and replace with new washers (one on either side) replace the ring retainer (recommend getting new one) with same tool. If you remove the small panel in the back of the washer it is very eassy to replace the belt.... I did replace it although the old one looked almost new .. instructions and a diagram come with the parts you buy here by the way... which they should say... place belt on drum per instructions (solid side down), put belt inside the chanell on drum (it will climb to the correct position by itself) put on drum front cover to hold drum in place, and then sting belt on pulley from the back of the dryer. (diagram comes with belt otherwise look at it before taking off the drum) Replace front panel (after reconnecting switch) and you are off (if you want to test without the front panel you have to touch the switch wires to each other (use tape) and do not do plugged in...
After much anxiety but not that much work the dryer runs great and is as quiet as new.... I took the parts off before ordering by the way.... the order came within three days... I am happy to have PartSelect.com .. Maytag had not clue this model even existed.... Thanks

Removed back panel of machine which exposed badly worn idler pulley. Have had problem before on another dryer so I was sure what problem was before I started. Removed snap washer and cloth washer and then bad pulley.(It was very worn and wobbly).Cleaned shaft with small piece of emery paper and put two drops of oil on shaft and replaced old pulley with new one.Put back washer and snap washer.Drive belt had slipped away from its proper position so I had to remove the front panel of the dryer to place the belt back and realign it on the drum and around the new pulley and the motor drive shaft. Not really that difficult.....Machine now runs like it's brand new.....

Followed instruction video

Took longer to open the box that it did to drop the new lint filter into the dryer. Washed a load of clothes and the new dryer filter worked great

Thanks.

R. Bonker

No tools required, just insert the new lint filter in place of the old one. My dryer is about 20 years old. I think I was lucky to even be able to find a replacement lint filter.

The directions for the door latch kit told you to take the front of the washer apart to remove the old latch. But in my case the latch was broken in such a way that was not necessary. The new part just popped into place! No more fridge magnets holding the door closed!!!

And the new lint filter is great, the old one was so gunked up with old lint it was becoming difficult to clean.

I don't really know how old my dryer is, I purchased it used about 3 years ago.

Turn off circuit breaker or unplug. Remove two screws 4 inches from bottom front panel of cabinet with stubby phillips head. Pull panel towards you about 30 degrees; then wiggle it down, to free two steel spring clips holding it to cabinet. Pull off red and yellow wire from door switch. Now set front panel aside. Blower assembly is facing you at lower left. Open the housing by removing six small screws from cover and one attached to dryer base. Remove spring clip from end of shaft. (A circlip pliers helps to prevent it from springing off somewhere.). Squeeze spring retainer surrounding blower wheel shaft with regular pliers, and wiggle the blower off. Replace in reverse order. Be sure insulation around blower wheel housing seats properly into front panel. This keeps the hot air flowing up past the lint trap.
Easy job, about half hour. Mine took longer, because I had removed the belt and drum, thinking the noise came from bad drum support rollers. It was just the plastic blower wheel shaft seat, which had worn itself round. Cost $20 (including shipping) and my 29-year old Maytag is as good as new--at least for now.

actually used the videos available on your website and it made the job really simple other than the fact that I live in Florida and it was 96 degrees and my dryer is in my non-air conditioned garage.

Summary: I followed the instructions in the PartSelect.com repair video that was displayed on the motor part page on the site (video here: https://youtu.be/eXJMmn5mwMY).

Details:
1.) I turned off power to the dryer.
2.) I removed the front panel by removing the two screws on the bottom edge with a stubby #2 Phillips screwdriver, then rotated the panel out until the clips released on the top edge.
3.) I noted the wire connections to the door switch, and then removed the three wires from the terminals on the door switch. I removed the door switch wire harness from the clips and moved it out of the way.
4.) I removed the blue wire from the dryness sensor and set it aside but left the other wire attached since it would come off with the bulkhead.
5.) I removed the front tumbler bulkhead by removing the four hex-head screws that secured it with a 5/16" nutdriver. I set the bulkhead aside.
6.) I reached back under the tumbler drum and slipped the drive belt off the idler pulley beside the motor, then pulled the tumbler drum straight out the front of the dryer. I also removed the belt as it was going to be replaced.
7.) I removed the two hex-head screws holding the guard plate over the temperature and thermal overload sensors with a 5/16" nutdriver and then removed the plate.
8.) I removed the single hex-head screw holding the blower housing to the base of the dryer with a 5/16" nutdriver, then removed the six hex-head screws on the front blower cover with a 3/16" nutdriver. I removed the front blower cover and set it aside.
9.) I removed the retaining ring holding the blower wheel from the blower shaft with a retaining ring pliers, then removed the spring clamp from the blower wheel hub with a pair of needlenose pliers. I used a flat-blade screwdriver to gently open up the slots on the blower wheel hub and was able to pull the blower wheel straight off the shaft.
10.) I removed the four hex-head screws attaching the rear blower housing to the motor mount with a 5/16" nutdriver, then removed the rear blower housing, making sure to gently remove it from the exhaust pipe as well.
11.) I detached the idler pulley spring from the idler pulley arm.
12.) I removed the two hex-head screws holding the motor mount to the base of the dryer with a 5/16" nutdriver, then slid the motor mount to the right do detach the tabs on the base from the mounting slots. I disconnected the wires from the motor (red, blue, grey, black and yellow) and moved the wiring harness out of the way..
13.) I pulled the motor and motor mount out of the dryer and placed them on the workbench. Then I removed the retaining ring from the blower end of the motor shaft with retaining ring pliers.
14.) I removed the drive pulley from the shaft with a 3/16" hex key to loosen the set screw. This required a few taps on the key with a hammer.
15.) I removed the motor clips from each end of the motor with a flat-bladed screwdriver, pushing the locking tab on the clip down until it disengaged from the hook on the motor mount.
16.) I removed the motor from the motor mount and discarded it.
17.) I placed the new motor into the motor mount and aligned it so that the frame of the motor would not come in contact with the tumbler drum. I put the new motor clips back on with a flat-bladed screwdriver.
18.) I slid the drive pulley onto the drive shaft and lined it up with the belt mark on the idler pulley. Then I tightened the set screw with a 3/16" hex key and several light taps with the hammer.
19.) I placed the rear blower retaining clip onto the blower end of the shaft with the retaining ring pliers.
20.) The motor came with no wiring diagram, and the manufacturer also changed the starting switch with a different model. Some research on the PartSelect.com site yielded instructions on the correct terminal connections. The motor came with several 1/8" crimp connectors to replace the original 1/4" connectors on 2 of the wires. I used the wire strippers to cut the ends off the red and yellow wires, stripped 1/4" of insulation, and the used the crimping tool to crimp new 1/8" connectors on the red and yellow wires.
21.) I replaced the motor mount and motor back in the dryer and connected the wires to the correct terminals. There was a blue jumper wire on the motor that I removed per instructions so that the grey wire could connect to the motor thermal overload terminal.
22.) Reassembly was then the reverse of disassembly. The only tricky part was putting the new belt on and getting it threaded through the drive pulley and idler pulley in the correct orientation. While I had the drum out, I took the opportunity to lubricate the drum roller wheel bearings and the idler pulley bearing and to clean out the accumulated lint from some 20 years of operation.

The job took about 2 hours total, a good portion of which was spent figuring out the correct wiring for the new motor.

The dryer now works quietly and starts without issue.

This dryer has been really reliable. This is the first time I've had to repair it. PartsSelect.com says the noise had a 30% chance the problem would be the tumbler rollers and shaft and 18% it would be the blower impeller fan. I took a chance on the rollers, thinking I would save $20 on the blower fan. Big mistake! Once I dissambled the dryer, I realized almost immediately it was the blower fan and not the rollers. When I manually turned the motor shaft, I discovered the problem. The plastic fan's shaft hole is worn to a larger diameter and is semi-freewheeling on the shaft causing the racket. I replaced the rollers and belt and ordered a new fan. I tried putting electrical tape on the shaft to enlarged the OD like a fellow on this site said, but it worked for about 3 minutes then the racket started again. Also, I had to pull the dryer away from the wall and open the access door to the back of the motor in order to thread the drive belt on the motor and idler pulleys. I couldn't fit my arms along side and under the tumbler. I've got the scratches on my left arm to prove it. Suggestion: Replace the blower fan, rollers and shafts if you have the rumbling noise when operating the dryer. Might as well replace the drive belt while you have it apart, too.