DE22CA Maytag Dryer - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Dryer Barrel was not turning
Looked in one of the back removable panels and saw the broken belt. Took the machines front panel off per a You Tube video and saw the repair was simple but too the time to vacuum out a large amount of Lint Debris that had accumulated over the past 34 years all over the inside of the machine which is dangerous.. After cleaning it all up I simply put the new belt on and put everything back together and it all works nicely again!
Parts Used:
-
Frank from HAWTHORNE, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Motor Bearings Were Bad Causing A High Pitch Squeak / Squealing Noise When Dryer Was Running
First, it is IMPERATIVE that the dryer is unplugged from the wall or the appropriate breaker is turned off to prevent electrocution!!! The front of the dryer is removed by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front with a Phillips head screwdriver. Next, remove the door wiring from the wiring clamp and set front / door of dryer to the side. Next, remove the bulk head by removing four nuts from the sides with the appropriate nutdriver. The drum belt will have to be disconnected from the motor pulley by lifting the spring of the pulley to release belt tension. This can be done from the front or back access panel of the dryer. The back access panel gives you a better view of the motor pulley and attached belt. After removal of the belt from the motor pulley, the drum of the dryer can be removed. Next, remove the heat shield at the front of the dryer. It is held on with two nuts and can be removed using the appropriate nut driver. Next, remove the blower wheel housing cover using the appropriate nut driver. The blower wheel will be next. It can be removed by using a pair of pliers to remove the circular clamp. A pair of snap-ring pliers will also be need to remove the snap-ring also holding the wheel in place on the motor axle. After the blower wheel is removed from its housing, the housing will need to be removed. The housing is again held in place by several nuts and the appropriate nut driver will be needed to remove them. Next, take all wiring loose from the motor. It would be a good idea to photograph or note how and what wires were attached in specific locations on the wiring harness. The new motor may be different when it comes to wiring and will be accompanied by a wiring diagram and the needed connection ends for the wiring. If it is a different wiring layout, as was my motor that I ordered from this site, a set of wiring strippers / pliers will be needed to cut, strip, and crimp the new connectors. After wiring has been removed from the motor, remove the motor by removing two nuts with the appropriate nut driver from the bottom of the motor mount. The motor, mount, and pulley will then all come out as one piece. The motor will then need to be removed from the mount. This can be accomplished by using a flat head screwdriver and a hammer. Place the flat end of the screwdriver into the raised edge of the motor mount clamp and pull away from the locking bracket. If needed, use a hammer to give that extra tap to the end of the screwdriver to remove the clamps. After the motor is removed from the mount, an Allen wrench will need to be utilized to take the belt glide / seat off of the motor axle. You will also need the snap-ring pliers again to remove a snap ring from this axle as well. Clean the motor mount and dry thoroughly. Grease the pulley housing where it contacts the motor mount for smooth gliding against the mount. It is important that you use a NON-FLAMMABLE grease. This is the end of the "tear-down" phase. Now is a good time to vaccum and clean the inside of the dryer cabinet. This will help insure that excess lint and fuzz is removed to prevent an accidental dyer fire. Next, place the new motor back into the motor mount in reverse order. Make sure the belt glide / seat from the motor axle aligns with the belt marks on the pulley. Reassemble the dryer in reverse order, making sure to follow the wiring diagram provided with your new motor. Also you need to insure that the motor is turned at a 45 degree angle to allow the dryer drum to pass the motor without striking it. After reassembly, plug in the dryer and attempt to start. If your dryer does not start, troubleshoot the wiring first. Wiring was the most difficult part of this repair and working in the tight space provided was a trick. Also look up a video of the repair! This helped me tremendously. Videos can be found on this site or at YouTube.com.
Parts Used:
-
Cody from BENTON, TN
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Old lint filter was worn out
No tools required, just insert the new lint filter in place of the old one. My dryer is about 20 years old. I think I was lucky to even be able to find a replacement lint filter.
Parts Used:
-
Ellen from Sharon, MA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The door latch had broken, and it was time for a new lint filter.
The directions for the door latch kit told you to take the front of the washer apart to remove the old latch. But in my case the latch was broken in such a way that was not necessary. The new part just popped into place! No more fridge magnets holding the door closed!!!
And the new lint filter is great, the old one was so gunked up with old lint it was becoming difficult to clean.
I don't really know how old my dryer is, I purchased it used about 3 years ago.
And the new lint filter is great, the old one was so gunked up with old lint it was becoming difficult to clean.
I don't really know how old my dryer is, I purchased it used about 3 years ago.
Parts Used:
-
Joanna from Mantua, OH
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Rumbling when dryer was running and also for about 5 seconds after dryer stopped
Removed the two lower screws holding front of dryer assembly in place and "unhinged" it and stood it up on floor. Then I unclipped the two wire leads on inside of dryer door assembly and moved assembly completely out of work area. Next I removed the four screws holding the tumbler frame in place and removed that frame from the work area. Now you can access the blower wheel "frame" and remove 5 or 6 hex screws to get that off and out of your way. You DO NOT have to remove the dryer drum and/or drum belt to complete this repair, so save yourself some work and leave it in place!! Once the blower wheel frame is off, use pliers and a flatheaded screwdriver to get the small outer retaining clip off, and then just pliers to get the wheel retaining ring off the wheel shaft. Put on the new blower wheel, use pliers to replace the aforementioned wheel retaining ring, and then the small outer retaining clip...VIOLA! You're finished! Dryer will run like new with a smooth purr instead of that dreaded rumbling sound.
Parts Used:
-
Stephen from Gibraltar, MI
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
front glides wore out
-
james from WOODBURN, IN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer making strange thumping noise
Removed back panel of machine which exposed badly worn idler pulley. Have had problem before on another dryer so I was sure what problem was before I started. Removed snap washer and cloth washer and then bad pulley.(It was very worn and wobbly).Cleaned shaft with small piece of emery paper and put two drops of oil on shaft and replaced old pulley with new one.Put back washer and snap washer.Drive belt had slipped away from its proper position so I had to remove the front panel of the dryer to place the belt back and realign it on the drum and around the new pulley and the motor drive shaft. Not really that difficult.....Machine now runs like it's brand new.....
Parts Used:
-
William from New Bern, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Rattling noise and slow drying.
Turn off circuit breaker or unplug. Remove two screws 4 inches from bottom front panel of cabinet with stubby phillips head. Pull panel towards you about 30 degrees; then wiggle it down, to free two steel spring clips holding it to cabinet. Pull off red and yellow wire from door switch. Now set front panel aside. Blower assembly is facing you at lower left. Open the housing by removing six small screws from cover and one attached to dryer base. Remove spring clip from end of shaft. (A circlip pliers helps to prevent it from springing off somewhere.). Squeeze spring retainer surrounding blower wheel shaft with regular pliers, and wiggle the blower off. Replace in reverse order. Be sure insulation around blower wheel housing seats properly into front panel. This keeps the hot air flowing up past the lint trap.
Easy job, about half hour. Mine took longer, because I had removed the belt and drum, thinking the noise came from bad drum support rollers. It was just the plastic blower wheel shaft seat, which had worn itself round. Cost $20 (including shipping) and my 29-year old Maytag is as good as new--at least for now.
Easy job, about half hour. Mine took longer, because I had removed the belt and drum, thinking the noise came from bad drum support rollers. It was just the plastic blower wheel shaft seat, which had worn itself round. Cost $20 (including shipping) and my 29-year old Maytag is as good as new--at least for now.
Parts Used:
-
Laurence from Leesburg, VA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
old lint filter had a tear in it.
Just pulled out the old filter and inserted the new one. went great and fit good.
Parts Used:
-
Farrell from Le Mars, IA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Initially the dryer made a loud rumble during startup, It progressed until the noise was continuous during operation.
Because of the nature of the noise, and knowing nothing of appliance repair, I assumed that there was a loose belt. I figured that the belt would be accessible from the rear of the machine. After much disassembly, I discovered that the belt was in fine shape and not the problem. But every time I spun the drum, I could still hear the rumbling sound. Eventually, I discovered that the from paned of the dryer is the easiest to remove. Once I removed that, I discovered the blower fan housing. A few screws later and I could see that the plastic fan center was worn out. I had a part number so I simply did a quick internet search and found several sites that stocked it. PartSelect had the best price and the best shipping prices as well. I placed the order on Saturday afternoon. I got the confirmation immediately, and the shipping information on Monday. On Wednesday the part was waiting at my door! It took about 15 minutes to re-assemble the dryer and now, about 18 loads later, it's perfect!
Thank you PartSelect!!!!
Joe G
Thank you PartSelect!!!!
Joe G
Parts Used:
-
Joseph from Ontario, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Lint Filter had a hole on it.
-
Eduardo from Miami, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Blower wheel worn replaced belt became it looked worn
-
James from NEW CASTLE, DE
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
squeaky sound when drying
Removed front panel and tumbler, replaced roller axle,
wheel, and front glides. Anybody can do this.
wheel, and front glides. Anybody can do this.
Parts Used:
-
Chris from Sherman, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
blower fan central stem broke off. was making a bad noise.
We had trouble getting the front of the dryer off; we tried to pry the top off. It works better if you remove the screws at the bottom of the front panel ;) Once we had the front off, we used a 1/4" ratchet wrench to take the front off the fan housing. We took off the compression clamp off easily with a pair of priers. Removing the retainer clip was harder; we ddn't have the right tool. We removed the broken fan. We ordered the part, easy peasy, from this website. Had to buy a $9 tool to put the retainer washer back on. We reassembled the fan housing and put the fron back on. It worked! Total cost: ~$30.00. Actual time (excluding waiting for parts and buying tools): 2 hours.
Parts Used:
-
David from EASTPOINTE, MI
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Socket set
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
replace idler pully and belt
After viewing repair video I used those instructions, after removing drum place new belt on drum, I used scotch tape to hold belt in place, tape belt with 2 inch strip about every foot around drum, leave extra belt that connects to drive motor folded down and taped to drum. After installing drum connect belt to drive motor and roll drum to remove tape. This will keep belt from sliding out of place on drum while installing.
Parts Used:
-
ellison from LAKE PLACID, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!