DCCD330ED3WC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

My daughter, who has the dryer in Florida, made the repair herself. She removed the broken handle that had been temporarily taped in place. Cleaned off tape residue with Goo-Gone. Then took the new handle and snapped it into place. Worked just like it was supposed to.

removed remaining handle pieces and simply snapped the new part in place. very simple,very easy.

The first thing I did was move the dryer out so I could "unplug it" !
Then I took the 4 philps head screws out that hold down the top of the dryer, then I lifted up the top and moved it off to the side making sure the wires didn't get pulled out.
Then I removed the 2 5/16 cap screws that holds the front panel on and lifted that off "Make sure you mark the down were the 2 wires for the door swich go" Like white on pin 1 and yellow on pin 2!!!
The next thing is to slide the drum foward so you can remove the element package then remove the 3 philps screws in the back of the drum make sure you have someone hold the element package there is a sheild between the drum and the element package that may fall that is a watch out you will need to move the element package up so you can work on it there will be wires hooked to this ring so becare full you don't break them off.
remove the element package you will see the bearing kit attached to that.
There are 4 5/16 cap screws that hold the bearing kit to that remove them and then remove the old bearing kit you may find and E Ring holding the old bearing kit in place (this would be found in the older models).
Before you install the new bearing kit take the new self tapping screws and tap the holes in the new bearing kit mounting plates this will make things go faster!!!
Now mount the bearing plate with the 4 holes to the element package there is a tab that needs to be mount in there too so look at the old one when you are taking it off.
Pick up the sheild that fell pick it up have a second person help you hold everything in place while you line up the holes for the front plate to the back of the drum and start your screws.
Now tighten them down check to make sure your belt didn't slide off the tensioner that is next to the motor before you slide the drum back in place if it did take the time to figure out how to get it back on the right way our you will be pulling things apart again.
What I did was spin the Drum by hand to make sure everything was ok. you will know if the belt is off it will not move when you spin the drum by hand.
Now that you made sure the belt is on you can put the front back on there are 2 studs on the bottom that you need to set the frount panel on before you can put the screws back in in it.
Now that you have the fron back on it hook your 2 wires back up to the door switch like you took them off!
Now move your top back over and you will see 2 clips on the back of it that slide into a grove in the back now that you have that in place start putting the screws back in put the middle 2 in first and tighten them down them put the last 2 in.
Now plug it back in if your vent pipe fell off hook it back up as you slide your dryer back in place now try it to make sure everything is working right and you will hear the differance.
Good Luck with your repairs....
Just a quick note this dryer is over 40 years old and still going.
I have replace 6 elements and 1 drive belt since it was bought new now the bearing kit.
Clean it once a year and the vent pipe every 6 months it will last!!!

Called my son-in-law. Easy as pie

removed top, 2 hex screws, removed front 2 hex screws & 2 star screws. removed belt, slid drum out. Removed old bearing and replaced with new bearing kit. assembled in reverse.
It would help to have another person assist you.

removed rhe control panel, 4 torx screws. removed top of unit 2 philips screws , lifted out of the way ro get to front panel . 2 more torx screws ro get front panel off then juat a matter of changing out worn parts & reassembling dryer unit took maybe an hour thing runs great now

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

Unplugged dryer, slid away from wall, and rotated 90 degrees. I removed top panel, and front panel, pulling off 2 electrical wires, and disconnecting 1 Molex connector, for the door switch. I turned the front panel around, and leaned up against the dryer drum. I removed the light bulb, then snapped off the remains of the upper bearing, then unsnapped the duct panel assembly. I carefully positioned the duct assembly against the front panel, carefully making sure not to pinch any wires, and pressed into place. I then pushed the bottom of the top bearing into the duct assembly, and pushed the top into place, replacing the bearing wear strips, 2 black, 2 white once bearing is snapped into place. I rewired the door switch, put the bulb back in, screwed the front panel, then top panel back on, rotated back into position, plugged it in, and started dryer. Problem solved!

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

I followed the directions from the other d-i-y'ers at partselect.com.... removing 2 screws inside the door opening that allow you to remove the cabinet top. Next, removed the 2 screw on the inside cabinet frame that allow the front of the cabinet and door to lean out. I disconnected the wires, labelling them with tape. You just lift up the front and set it to the side. I then removed the back access panel, reached inside and pulled down on the tension bar to allow the drum-belt to come off the pulley. (It helps to remember or draw the path of the belt...I got a little confused when it was time to put it back on). Then me and my wife pulled the drum out towards the front - you have to spread the cabinet open a little - but you can do this without even having to remove the control panel (but if you remove the panel, it is a little easier). The rest is mostly just unscrewing screws.

The problem was definitely the rear drum bearing, which was rusted and the carbon/plastic sleeve was crumbled. I bought it and the front "drum bearing", but I didn't really need the front piece, I really just needed the plastic "slides", which I thought were attached to it, or would at least come with it, but didn't. I'll get those later.

The repair was definitely worth it. If you have a 10 yr old dryer, just clearing the lint and crud from the the blower ducts will make it more efficient - cutting our dying times by 30-50%. The duct beneath the lint filter was probably 60% blocked. No more squeaking. I only wish the little plastic slides weren't $7 a pop, and would come in a package of 2 or 4.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Removed top. Removed 2 screws holding front panel. Swung panel out to access felt and bearing. Pulled out felt and replaced. Pulled of drum bearing and installed new one.

Good time to vacume out all the lint.

NOTE: Order 4 SLIDE WH with the drum bearing. When you order the bearing it automatically orders you 2 Slides, but all 4 should be replaced.

as per your instructions. The copy of the directions was very hard to read

Pulled the drum an found spade clip burned on wire. Hi limit Thermostat crumbled/ broke while pulling spade clip so I trimmed back the wire, cleaned the spade clip and soldered the wire back on. Isolated the other thermostats in the system and tested for resistance. Reassembled dryer.

i read in the forums about what was wrong and ordered the parts--they really need to tell you there are four bearing slides to be replaced-- you have to order singly. other than that - my grandson could repair it and the silence really is golden
Moose