DBL333EBC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

My wife was attempting to start a load of laundry when the start knob came off in her hand. I figured the inside of the knob had broken loose and the stem from the rotary start switch would be sticking out, well the stem had broken off flush and the knob was fine. After ordering a replacement, I jerry rigged the broken one with a large screw driven into it and put it back in place, worked great, just had to put a screwdriver into the screw and turn it to get the dryer to start. I felt it was fine to stay that way but the wife insisted we install the new one to put the knob back in place. The new switch arrived very quickly and went into without a problem, just four screws to remove the panel, two wire connections and was working again.

installation exactly how your directions told me on the computer

Removed four allen head screws to expose inside of panel. Used flat blade screwdriver to raise spring retainer and turned switch counter clockwise to remove.

Removed 3 torx screws on the control panel. Removed two more regular screws from the dryer opening. This allows removal of the top. Removed some panels from the back to access where belt feeds through the motor. Found the belt snapped in two inside.

Now that I knew what the problem was I found partselect.com on Google. Ordered the part friday morning with ground. The belt arrived SATURDAY MORNING! I didn't even know fedex would deliver ground shipments on Saturday. Less than 24 hours later I had it. AWESOME.

Removed the front panel by removing two hex bolts to allow me to drape the belt over the drum. Not having seen how the belt was originally around the tensioner and the bad diagrams included with the dryer, it took some figuring to get it back on right. But we did it and we're back in business. I will absolutely buy from PartSelect.com again!

After identifying the issue, the biggest issue was trying to identify how to get the belt around the drum tumbler. After looking through the back hatch, I figured the best way was through the top. I removed the top just enough to work the belt in between the drum and the front sheet metal. Then I turned it on its side and worked the belt from the back hatch. I pulled the pulley back on the tensioner and slipped the belt under neath. Put it back together, been working great.

I followed the instructions in your detailed online video. Fortunately on my model there was a removable panel on the back of the dryer which provided easy access to install the drive belt on the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Great video and very easy repair.

This is the third time for a belt on this 28 year old dryer. Not too much to it. Unplug the dryer. Open the door. Remove the screws holding on the front panel and loosen the screw at the bottom. Disconnect the wires to the door switch and lift off the front panel and start up the shop vac to clean out the lint - there is a lot to be found in various places. Slide the new belt over the front of the drum and make sure there are no twists. You can now reverse the order to mounte the front panel but don't close the top so you have light to see inside. Go around to the back panel and remove the machine bolts holding on the access panel at the back. This allows access to the motor and belt tensioner. Get the shop vac out here and get to some more lint. Google the model number to find a diagram on how to route the belt. Put the belt on the motor shaft and around the tensioner as depicted. Occaisionally the plastic idler pully is worn and this can be the cause of the brokent belt. If the idler wheel does not spin freely, squeads or is cracked it should be replaced or you will be right back replacing the belt again. If all is fine it is time for a test run. CAUTION - you can plug the dryer in but keep your hands out of the cabinet as there are live exposed 220 volt terminals exposed. This allows you to observe that all is working and not binding during a test run with NO heat. If all is fine, unplug the dryer and put the covers back on. Reconnect the exhaust hose (now is a good time to clean that and the vent to outdoors as well).

I removed the 2 screws and lock assemblies from both sides on the back. Then i removed 4 screws (two from each side) on the control panel and lifted that up as i tipped the cover forward to disconnect the wires from the door switch. I found the wiring diagram inside the control panel cover, which included a belt routing diagram (very helpful, being the belt was laying in the bottom. I then removed 3 torx srews holding the drum to the bearing, and removed the drum. Let the fun begin! i proceded to put the belt onto the motor pulley and around the tensioner. i needed some help from my wife to set the drum back in as i held the belt up around it. once the drum was back in, i found the beld had fallen away from the tensioner. I lifted the front of the drum up just enough to get both arms below it and move the tensioner back to slip the belt over it correctly. With the new belt on i started to put the screws back in the drum. This got very frustrating, as you have to correctly line up all the holes again, while holding the drum in the correct angle to start the screws. this was the hardest part, not physically, but wears on a person's nerves quickly! Once all the screws were in and tight, i took a deep sigh of relief before i tipped the front cover up just enought to get the wires hooked back up for the door. I turned the unit on to verify the repair before re-assembly. Yep! works again, for well under $20.00! Thanks PartSelect!

Removed top panel from dryer. Unplugged the 2 wires for swithch, rotated swith, and removed. Reversed the process. Put parts back together.

Found excellent instructions and diagrams online by searching under the model number. Best of all was the service from PartSelect. Belt arrived 24 hours after ordering. It was the right part, it was easy to install, and the dryer is running beautifully.

Took the top and front off. DO NOT TAKE DRUM OFF!! Lifted drum slightly and worked belt around drum. Replaced front and top. Took off rear panel at bottom near vent pipe. Put belt around motor and then tension pulley. Buttoned everything up and that was it!

Take the top off and front off and disconnect the belt and lift the drum out and there it is . Easy and alot cheaper then new dryer and works like new .

This was done to a washer/dryer that is in a closet and was worked on in place and not removed so it was all done through the front. Its a good idea to vacuum the inside out before putting it all back together. 1.Remove all of the screws that hold down the top of the dryer and remove top. 2. Remove the front slanted panel below the controls then Remove the two small black screws holding the plastic inserts on the left and right sides of the controls panel plus the two silver screws that will allow it to drop so that you can access the tabs that hold the front section on. 3. Remove screws holding the front section with the door on. The last two will be tabs at bottom that were hidden by control panel. Unplug connector and remove front. 4. Note how belt is positioned around motor and tensioner before removing belt.(just push tensioner until belt is loose enough to slide off of drum to remove belt). 5.Slide out drum and remove old bearing and replace with new one. Be especially careful tightening the three screws that attach the bearing as they are easy to strip. 6. To remove the bushing at the back of the dryer you will remove the two screws. but you will need to hold the clip on the back of the dryer or it will drop when the screws are removed. When re-installing MAKE SURE not to lose your ball bearing that the drum bearing will rest against. I used a strong small magnet to hold the ball bearing against the back of the nylon cradle bushing so I wouldn't lose it when re-installing the bushing and it worked great. Once the nylon bushing was back in place I lubed it thoroughly and put everything back in reverse order. I usually would not fill out one of these do-it-yourself forms but the instructions that are already listed with this part are completely different from what I encountered up to the actual bearing and bushing replacement. Hope this helps.

I like to fix , i have time and i just give me the chance to try , and i did it , i wish to pay less for the parts , but was a good feeling when the problem fixed

I follow the easy instruction by a user in your web site to reach the problem area and discoverd the drive belt was broken.
As it turned out, the problem was compounded when I discovered also that the Heating element needed replacement.
At this point I decided it was time to let go and got a new dryer, choosing the same brand that lasted 25 years: GE