D31103SAWL Maytag Range - Instructions

slide latches in rear of floor panel forward and remove.

finally after years of searching for trays of this size with no luck in local stores, I was able to find and purchase 2 sets, one set for my daughter, which we were able to put in place to clean up our stoves and make them more appealing . Thank-you for your prompt service.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!

It looked like an easy fix. the igniter had a plastic clip. A simple R&R. Removed old igniter from its mount, removed plate to get access to wires, removed insulation. Tried to pull the old wires out of its location. It was hung up and I spent 1/2 hr. trying to free it. No go. I thought I'd have to remove oven from its cabinet. I removed six screws and it would not come forward. I felt the under side of the oven thru lower door of cabinet and found out that was where gas was connected. No way was I disconnecting the gas. Pushed oven back in, reinstalled screws and decided to cut old wires and splice in the new igniter. WENT BACK AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Supplied were 4 ceramic wire nuts. Then the light bulb went on! OKAY! I got a marker and marked the top wire on the old igniter to identify it after I cut the wires as close to the back of the old igniter as I could with a pair of side cutters. I then cut the wires as close as I could to the plastic clip on the new igniter. Striped off 3/8 in. from all wire ends and spliced the wires together using the wire nuts. I stuffed the wires as far as possible back into the hole they came from, replaced all old and some new insulation into the hole. The supplied cover would not work, screw holes would not line up and would have fit poorly. I reused the old hole cover. Screwed new igniter to its mount. Turned on the oven and thought I screwed up. I waited about 30 seconds before I saw it start to glow. WHEW! I got it right! After a few more seconds, the gas came on and the oven burner ignited. The really hard part was putting the oven door back on its mount. That door was heavy and wouldn't line up on the first try.......
Maybe if I read the instructions thoroughly the first time before I started, I could have cut my time in half and saved a lot of cussin'. CUTTING THE WIRES WAS AN "OPTION"! That's why they supplied the ceramic wire nuts!....... Dinner is in the oven right now. Smells good!

The repair was super simple, just remove the drip pan and place new one.
The hard part was finding the drip pan for such an old model appliance. I had shopped locally here in San Antonio with no luck.
I was very happy to find them (exact match) at Part Select and the price was very reasonable. I'll use Part select in the future for needed parts.

I first removed oven racks.then I removed bottom of oven by sliding locks,then lifting out bottom.Next I removed screw holding e. control cove,then removed cover.Igniter plug was exposed,I then unpluged egniter. I next removed 2 screws holding burner and igniter .I removed igniter and burner as a unit. removed 1 screw from igniter,and replaced igniter on burner.Then assembled every thing in reverse order,and tested Oven worked perfectly.

took out two screws that held Igniter to burner, unbluged wires from behind and pulled them out to the front of over, replaced with new one, solved the problem of the burner not coming on,,,,

I removed the old module ,replaced new bracket,crimped new wire lugs on wires. being an electrician for 50 plus years helped.      Thanks   Lloyd

My wife said the oven would not heat up, I took a look at it and determined it was not igniting. I figured there was an electric spark like my BBQ. When I took the pan out of the bottom of the oven I saw that it did not look like anything I had seen before. I looked it up online and found out it had a glow ignitor that just heats up and then ignites the gas. Mine wasn't doing anything so I removed it, got a part number off of it an plugged that into this site. It came up with the part, i ordered it, put it in and started it up. probably took about 45 minutes total including taking it out and then replacing it. Really easy and the oven is now working fine. Figured it would have been a couple hundred dollars to have someone come to the house and fix it, I did it myself for less than 50. Thanks Partselect.

ordered the new igniter kit, it was delivered the NEXT day, followed the instructions, it was a lot easier then my old Tappan oven, took about 15 minutes. Not bad at all, and I am a 58 year old woman.

part was by the brolier drawer inside under stove removed 2 screws on cover/ part was attached to cover removed module line 1-2 fit/ had to use supplied disconects crimped on 4 burner wire leads/taped around module w/ elec. tape put back 2 screws finished. works now.

My brother is a handyman. The part was delivered very quickly. The instructions were very easy to read and after an hour, voila the oven works perfectly!

Thanks to previous posters, this seemed to be an igniter issue, and I found the idea of swapping the broiler igniter for the bottom one particularly good - I knew exactly what part was broken and how easy/hard the job would be prior to ordering. The part used snap in electric components, so the only work was in removing and re-installing the parts. Working in the oven was by FAR the most difficult part of the entire process.

Remove oven door, remove burner bar, replace ignitor, splice wires together because the old electrical connectors had melted together. Shipping was fast and extra wire, insulation and ceramic wire nuts were included.