CWE7000ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

The basic replacement of the bad seal went fairly well. Just had to follow the other guidance and pay close attention to the correct sequence so that the door goes back together as it should be. The only real difficult part was when attempting to hold the hinge downward so that the door could be properly placed back on the hinges. After closer examination I discovered that there were two holes in each of the hinges that when they were opened all the way that the holes lined up and I cut off two nails approx 2 inches long and then once I was able to pry the two hinges all the way opened and then I used them to slip in through the two holes and they worked just fine and they held the door open, until the door could be re-installed. Once installed the nail/pins could be easily removed with some needle nose pliers.

Watching the video of how to replace the sensor was great help and much appreciated, the only difference was that my wires were much shorter and I had to pull the oven out of the cabinet to get to the back of the oven to release the clip holding the wires together, unlike the video where the man jiggled the wires until the clip holding the wires together came through the little slot where the probe is attached, otherwise it was pretty simple, just a few extra steps to pull the oven forward to get to the rear to release the clip holding the wires together. Once I was able to release the clip I used one of the 2 adapters that was sent with the sensor probe and attached them after putting the wires through the hole where the probe was attached first then replaced the 2 screws that holds the sensor in place, slid the oven back in and turned the circuit breaker back on and it works perfectly. The video gave me the confidence to do this job though and I thank PartSelect very much for being a great company to help with videos and sending the parts so quickly.

We removed the 2 screws at back of oven that hold element on, which took some doing as they were very rusted. We then pulled old element out; this proved a bit difficult because the ends of the old element were stuck in the insulation behind. We had to wiggle the old element back and forth a bit to get it loose from the insulation. Other than that, it was easy.

Removed the screws from the back of the oven to remove the damaged element; removed the electrical connectors and reattached to the new element and screwed it back in

Remove the door. Place small screwdriver in each door arm to prevent extraction. Remove approx 20 screws. Remove the seal. Replace the new seal. you will need help in holding the seal in place until you car install at least two screws. Very straight forward. Took 20 minutes. Even a cave man can do it.

The sensor inserts into a slot in the back side of the range. By removing screws on the heat shield on the backside of the range, the sensor wires will be exposed can be unplugged. Then remove the screws that attach the sensor to the back inside panel in the oven. Next, pull the old sensor out. The wire leads will get caught on the insulation blanket, no big deal. Reverse the process to install the new sensor. The new sensor comes with two connector sets for the wiring. I did the whole job for less than the cost of a service call.

We took the door off, you have to be careful of the hinges popping back. We put small screwdrivers on each side and held the hinges out, this made the door easy to just stand up and slide back on the hinges. The glass replacement was simple just a few screws. We spent $127.00 on the part and shipping and a new wall oven would have cost us $1500.00. Thanks for making this part available.

Disconnected power pulled oven from wall, removed 8 screws from back, unplugged sensor, removed old, attached new, put screws back wow saved me $500. From buying new and $150. For service call

I read the online instructions sent in by previous diy'ers. the repairs, esp. the heating element replacement went just as described and went really well. I have used the oven and it works beautifully. Total cost of parts was a little over $60.00. Piece of cake!

opened the door; put 12 penny nails in each hinge through the holes for it, removed screws above hinges; slid door off; laid it on a towel on the workbench; removed side/top/bottom screws and laid the outer door aside. removed the screws from the inside of the door, laid the inside glass aside, removed the glass assembly (broken), cleaned the loose glass out, laid the new glass assembly in place, replaced the panels and screws and slid the door on the hinges, removed the nails and closed the door. 35 minutes. Never did it before4. Part fit great! Thanks to partselect for having the discontinued part!

I replaced the oven sensor which was easy to replace. A pigtail wire was provided with the sensor which is intended to be installed first so you don't have to reach around the front and back of the oven at the same time. The replacement was easy. However, that turned out not to be the problem. The real problem was the maytag electronic clock control timer, temperature control unit. The part number is 7601P177-60. This device has been discontinued and I was fortunate enough to find the part at a local supplier. Once I replaced this, the problem went away. The oven heats up normally. My original symptom was that when setting the oven temperature to something like 350 degrees, the display would rapidly report heating up the oven to that temperature, and the oven was only mildly warm. If you have that symptom, it is probably not the oven sensor. It is the electronic clock unit. Hope you can find one. If you can't, I think you need to by a new oven. Regards

I removed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one using the supplied wiring adapter for my model of range. Parts Select made this an easy project. Thanksyou

removed 2 screws in probe and pulled it out.had to take back off as wire was tangled from factory and couldn't do quick repair

Replace the oven sensor per the excelent easy video you provided

The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.