CVM519P2P8S1 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Required removing the old unit and disconnecting the exhaust ductwork and drilling new holes for attachment to the cabinet

I unplugged the microwave to be safe. Climbed on a small step stool and slid the broken unit that kept sagging without that plastic hook holding the filter in. The door sagged and the microwave would only work if I pushed the door up and held it to use it. Once secured with the newer improved fixture attached through that Phillips screw into the metal attachment hole it works beautifully.

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

Googled problem, removed diode, checked with meter and it was open, ordered new diode, checked new diode and it read open, installed. Any way, it didn't work. Went and bought new microwave!!

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.

Followed instructions that came with bulb I ordered and could not have been easier. Will use this site again.

Multimeter checked/confirmed switches, sensors, and fuse first. All good. High power diode was bad - Replaced. Still no heat but now loud "MMMMM" noise when running. This means either the capacitor is also bad and/or magnetron.

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

Part Select sent the wrong part I did not realize it until prong broke off one of the bulbs. They sent 130v instead of 120v. Return bulbs awaiting resolution.

the problem was the mounting bracket that was installed when the house was built ,was not the bracket that came with the microwave. It was used to step the microwave out 3" in front of the other cabinets for the style that they were using then. so when I was installing the new cabinets I didn't want that style, so I ordered the original mounting bracket. It was a perfect fit and the install went great