CVM2072SM3SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

after a couple of misfires, got the correct size tray, and replaced it in the oven.

Replace the fuses

remove cover-unplug wires from secondary switch-remove switch-snap in new switch-plug in wires-replace cover-works great. very easy to do.

First unplugged the microwave, took top grill off, took control panel off, took wires off and used color coded tape to make sure they went back in right places, took fuse out and replaced it and put every thing back and it all worked fine and to top it off my wife did it all. So it was pretty easy.

every thing is working, but no hot

Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.

Found blowup drawings inside unit, which helped identify what I had to remove. Had neighbor assist in lifting unit from wall mount, unit slides easily from rails once top bolts are removed. Pay attention to where all the screws go as you remove them, some inside assemblies will have to be removed or loosened. A good guideline to go by is all black screws hold internal assemblies, the bronze screws go in the back side and the chrome screws go on top, sides, and front of the unit. I was able to lift unit back on rails without any assistance.

Installation of the damper was effortless but removing the microwave, cutting holes vertically through an overhead cabinet then installing ducting with a ninety degree bend, through another cabinet, and then through outside wall consumed most of the time and effort.Your service, packaging, and timely (next day!) were extremely helpful.

Had to take the MW off the wall, remove the cover, and find the magnetron. Issue was the HV-capacitor. Had to remove the diode and capacitor to discharge the capacitor safely. Crackle-Bang! Then put it back before toying with the HV-transformer in order to get the magnetron out. Took a little under two hours to get it back on the wall and a lot of cajones when monkeying around the chassis removing the capacitor. Not a job for most everyone as this was a potentially high-shock repair due to the voltage and micro-farads held in that capacitor. Hardest part was getting the magnetron to drop out past the HV-transformer. Also, the thermostat had to be removed from the magnetron and re attached to the new one. Fiddly delicate job, not for the clumsy or faint of heart.

Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.

R/R worn turntable coupler.

Remove old film by peeling away from glass. Lift from corner and pull to remove. Remove backing from new film slowly as you are applying to the door a little at a time. Smooth with a plastic spatular as you apply from one side of the door to the other and you will have no wrinkles or air pockets.

Turn off main power bracker. Removed fan vent, removed control panel, disconnect leads to the three monitor switches. Replaced the secondary switch (top). Reversed procedures.

There are five Philips screws on the bottom outside cover .one at each corner and one at the front center. Remove all four at the corners .leaving the front center for last. When the last screw is removed ,the cover will hinge down, it is attached to clips at the back that allow it fold down. The wire attached to the light socket is connected by a pull apart plug. Grasp at each end of the hard plastic connector and pull outward ,DO NOT PULL ON THE Wires ! Lift the cover from the back of the microwave place it on a flat surface on a towel keep it from sliding around. Remove the screws holding the porcelain sockets. Reverse procedure to reinstall .Installing new Halogen lamps is suggested. Use a clean tissue or cloth to handle the lamps, finger prints on the lamp will shorten the life .

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.