CTN1911GEW Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the freezer door and replaced with the new hinge.

I confirmed the problem was in fact the relay/capacitor by the burned smell and discoloring of the part. Other than a wire splice, it was simply swap part for part. The run cap was even easier as well as the defroster to change. The defrost t-stat took longer only because I needed to clean out the freezer in order to gain access. After that it is just plug-in and snap on. I plugged the fridge back in and checked it periodically for temp change.....bingo! Oh, this is a good time to clean your unit out as well!

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

The fan motor was burned up affecting the efficiency of the refrigerator. I removed the fan motor, tested it, ordered a new one and installed. saved 100 bucks in service call charge and got great service in delivery from parts direct. Ordered on Thursday and recieved monday.

First I did the thermostat and then I did the temperature control valve and I think that did it I should of done the control knob first because the fan in the freezer would run continually and wouldn't even shut off manually with the switch but now it turns off so I happen its fixed

Unplugged the unit. Removed items from the freezer. Remove 2 phillip head screws from the cover over the coils. Defrosted the unit with a blow dryer. Upon completion of defrosting, put everything back together. Removed items and top shelf in refrigerator to gain access to the controls. Removed a 1/4 inch nut head screw and loosened 2 each phillip head screws. Unplug the controls from unit and placed on kitchen counter. Removed 3 each phillip head screws holding the timer in place and unplugged the timer. Installed new timer, connected everything back together and placed everything back into the refrigerator. Plugged the unit back up and it is now cooling and defrosting properly. This whole process took approximately 45 minutes.

Received the part two days after ordering. Instructions were included. Removed the console by removing one screw and pulling it toward me. Removed the knob from the temp control and disconnected the wires (3 slide terminals). Removed the old temp control and replaced it with the new one, connecting and routing the wires and sensor tubing so they wouldn't get pinched. Replaced the knob, console and the screw. Easy job. Tested with an infra-red thermometer and adjusted the knob accordingly 3 or 4 times to get ~ 10 degrees in the freezer and ~ 40 degrees in the lower cabinet.

Removed back cover to see motor and the fan. Un plug the fan motor from the fan. Used 1/4in socket to remove 3 screws, then unscrewed plastic mounting plate off of motor, put plate back on new motor, used pliers to remove nut from fan blade,and rubber washer replaced to new motor. Then put new motor back in. Make sure motor is centered back in hole and fan does not hit. The brackets (3) that hold motor in place will swing so it can be centered in hole. Spin blade to make sure blade not hitting and is centered. Now plug fan motor back in. Just that simple.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

All you need is a 1/4" nut driver or a 1/4" socket and ratchet. Remove the plastic cover to the freezer fan. remove cover to light fixture, bulb, pop out the light socket and remover 2 wires. Remove Ice maker by removing bottom screw and loosing the top 2 screws then lift up and out the ice maker enough to disconnect wiring harness. Revove 4 screws in back panel and the panel can be moved foward. Remove 2 screws holding the fan to the panel. Lay the fan on top of the cooling coil and remove ice maker electrical plug and the panel can be removed easely. Both the heating coil and thermostate switch are easly excessable.

Replaced the "Run Capacitor. The non-rythmic clicking associated with the compressor coming on continues. The problem was obviously not the Run Capacitor". I don't know what to do next. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Phillip