CSX20GASBWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First i unplugged the refridgerator.Then i removed the freezer shelves and the 4 screws that hold the rear panel in the freezer.Next use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the ice from the coils making sure not to overheat anything.Be sure to place something in the bottom of the freezer to catch the water and block the hole with something to keep screws from falling in there.
Next,look how the heater element wires are routed so you can get them back the same way or close.Take a picture if you want.Now remove the 2 screws on the end of each element and remove the elements.Replace both even if only one looks bad.The element wire plugs in near the top of the freezer and the thermostat clips onto a metal tube.

I propped up the door with 2x4 and shims to be level with the freezer door. Then removed the 2 screws holding the hinge to the main unit. Then removed the 2 screws holding the cam washer to the door.
Replacement was the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to tighten screws almost tight until both pieces are located correctly then fully tighten. Lift up refrigerator door slightly to remove shims and wood block.
I did the replacement myself but was nervous that the door would fall off the block and shims. I recommend having another person hold the door closed during the process.

Removed 2 screws that hold it on, put the new one in with the 2 screws that were removed.

I was so pleased to find your website. We have just one company here in Columbia,S.C. that sells refrigerator parts. I did find out that they wanted about $60.00 for both pieces. Needless to say,I was just going to do without. I knew there had to be someone else. I found you guys on line,ordered my parts for a little over $5.00 a piece,and I put them in myself. I'm talking standard GE parts,not knockoffs. I am so pleased. Thanks for being there. I tell everyone about you.

I layed several small 2x4 blocks on the floor, then raised the door up from the hinge, using the small pry bar. Then removed the the screws for the hinge. Removed the screws holding the door stop and removed the door cam. Then, I replaced the door closing cam. Replaced the hinge and screws. I Lowered the door on to the hinge and applied a little lubricant to the cam and job complete.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

I emptied everything from door compartments.I removed the top cover of the door pivot with a phillips screwdriver. I removed the two screws that that hold the pivot bracket with a 8 mm socket. Lift the door off the bottom pivot bracket. Remove the old bottom pivot bracket with an 8mm socket and replace it with the new cam bushings.You must replace both bushings on the bottom of the door and on the bracket that mounts to the base of the body of the refrigerator. Reinstall the door and screws .The doors should be level with each other if they are installed properly.If not check the freezer door .The bushings may be worn on that door also.

First I diagnosed the problem being a defrost timer as the symtoms are the same as the heater elements. I installed the timer and it worked great for about a week until the frost build up on the evaporator became too much again and then the symtoms returned. I then checked the heater elements and found that both were bad PLUS two clips to the elements were corroded. I then ordered the 2 heater elements. There is more than 1 heater element. Make sure you measure the length of each and then use the graph picture with "Parts Select" on the new ones before you order. There is about a 2" in length difference. Also one comes in a kit with thermostat and wires. Wrong for me. I really wanted that unit as I needed the harness for the bad terminals but it was the wrong heaters and it also came with a new thermostat. Luckly I did not order that one but did order a new thermostat to make sure I did not have to go through this ordeal again. When the parts came I had already replaced the terminals and was ready to go when FedX came. Just make sure you check your heaters before just buying the defrost timer as it may keep you from going back to redo your repair. Just doing your home work before ordering may save you much time in your repair. "PARTS SELECT" was one day on both orders and I just ordered standard shipping. They are great to do business with.

Icemaker waterline leaking inside by the grommet where the water line comes in the refrigerator . First removed the water line from grommet . Then removed grommet by hand from the fridge. Last, reversed prodedure.

First, I removed all items on the door shelves and the shelves themselves to reduce the weight of the door. The door came off by itself because the bottom hinge had broken. Then I placed the door horizontal on the kitchen floor to have easier access to the bottom of the door. I had a piece of blanket under the door to prevent any scratch. I then removed two screws holding the door closing cam and shim and replaced them with the new parts. Next, I removed the base grill to have easy access to the old hinge assembly on the refrigerator itself. All I had to do was grab it firmly at either end and pull it forward. I replaced the hinge assembly with the new one. I removed the cover on the top hinge assembly and removed the two screws that secured that hinge (I was not able to put the door back without removing the top hinge assembly). All down hill from this point. Time to reinstall the door, aligning the bottom of the door cam over the hinge assembly and setting the door down on it making sure the door sets on the hinge assembly cams. To the top of the refrigerator. reinstalled the top door hinge assembly and cover (I had to make sure the door was standing straight vertically before I tightened the nuts), I also put a small amount of white grease into both the top and bottom hinges.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

The PartSelect web site was able to direct me right to my GE double door frig using the model number. I called in to order the parts that were worn out with some operator assistance finding out all parts were available to my surprise. I received the parts in just a few days. I blocked the door up with some scrap lumber allowing me to take the old hinge off being careful to watch where the old parts were located. I reassembled the new hinge. It all took about 30 minutes and about $40. If I would have called a service repairman it would have easily cost me $100 and with a lot less satisfaction. This is the second time I have used PartSelect with similar results.

Propped the door up with wood so we could change it without removing the whole door.
Removed &Replaced the cam and bracket quite easily. It did require 2 people, one to help hold the door while the other did the work.

The stop was bent and no longer stopped the door. However, by being bent, it interfered with removing one of the two hex head screws that held the stop in place. After taking pliers to break the bent portion off, the screws were easily removed with an 8 mm hex head ratchet wrench. Once the damaged (bent) stop was removed, the replacement was simple.

I replaced both lower hinges without removing the doors. First a couple of observations. The hinge kit consists of two parts; the lower part (bolted to the case) consists of an “L” bracket with a plastic cam, and the upper plastic cam (attached to the door). For some reason the upper cam is available as a separate part . If both cams are plastic both are worn out. Don’t bother ordering the individual cam. If one hinge is worn out the other probably isn’t far behind. Consider replacing both at the same time. Examine the door check. It is an inverted “T” shaped bracket bolted to the door that also holds the door cam. The crossbar of the T are metal tabs that check the door swing. Way too fragile IMO. On mine the refrigerator side was cracked and broke off when I removed it. Since the stops are the same right and left. I just swapped them when I replaced the hinges. Saved $22. Replacing the hinges without removing the doors. {Warning if this technique goes wrong you will be stuck with a loaded door you can’t open.} Remove the vent grill. Stack three 2x4’s along the bottom of both doors ( 26” is about right ). Shim the door(s) up to compensate for the cam wear. About 1/8”) Use a 5/16 socket to remove the hinge from the case. Pay attention to placement of the shims and spacers. Then remove the door cam and stop bracket. Install the new door cam. Leave the screws a little loose. Replace the lower hinge and tighten the screws. Do both sides. Then carefully remove the shims and 2x4’s. Finish tightening the door hinge screws. Check the door swing. I used this technique twice. One to replace the refrigerator side hinge, then again to replace the freezer side hinge and swap the door checks. There were no problems and I saved the hassle of unloading and removing the doors.