CSX20BABEAD Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions
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door hinge
put block of wood under the door, removed old hinge and installed the new one. about 15 minutes
Parts Used:
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Steve from BRANDON, MS
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
2 of 2 people
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lights blown out
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Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
6 of 14 people
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Replacing the Hinge Cam Riser (GE Part # WR02X10140) - it was brooken
I have just followed the instructions on the youtube video: It is really easy. I did. Thank you
Parts Used:
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Itamar from SARASOTA, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Door would drop down when opened
Removed the door by removing the top hinge and lifting it off the broken bottom hinge/cam assembly. Removed the broken hinge/cam assembly found out why the cam broke the doorstop was bent so I had to order the doorstop also. The ordering of the parts was so easy. They shipped them on Monday and they arrived the next day. I will use Parts Select again
Parts Used:
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Donald from Lauderhill, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
2 of 2 people
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drawer rails broken
installed 3 of 4 shipped parts. ended up with 2 upper right hand slide rails, even though ones package said upper left.
Parts Used:
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josh from springfield, OR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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the slide rail on the top drawer broke in half
I took the glass plate off the top of the drawer, then removed the draw. I then removed the two screws holding the slide rail. I put the new slide rail in place, put the screws back in it, slide the drawer back in place and replaced the glass top. nothing to it.
Parts Used:
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Sandy from Greenwood, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Open defrost heater
The most difficult part of the repair was the melting of the ice and preparation. I did change a single element heater for a dual element heater, which required a little manual flexing of the sub-frame, but it assembled with little issue. I was lucky, I did not have to splice the extended harness connection. Rerouting my existing gave sufficent length.
Not sure if the single elements were changed for dual, but it did have the same PN as the unit I replaced.
Not sure if the single elements were changed for dual, but it did have the same PN as the unit I replaced.
Parts Used:
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Christopher from Sarasota, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 3 people
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Freezer building up Ice
This is such an easy fix!
1-Unplugging the fridge and emptyi it. Remove all shelves.
2-remove the 2 screws at the top of the back panel with a 1/4 inch nutdriver. You'll have to tilt ithis panel forward and sideways to get it out.
3- DO NOT CHIP AT THR ICE COVERING THE COOLING COILS? Replace one shelf and rest a hair dryer on low heat on the shelf.. Plug the drain hole at the bottom with a rag so all the melted ice water doesn't flood the floor under the fridge. Soak up the water with a rag and bucket- this should take 20-30 minutes.
4-Remove the red and blue power cables from the element. Only 2 philips head screws hold the defrosting element in place. Once it's out you can tell it's burned out because it looks black like a burned out lightbulb.
4-Plug in the red and blue power cables to the new unit. You will need to reroute the blue power cable because the new unit has both power connections on the same end.
5-Replace the cover panel by sliding it in at an angle and replace the 1/4 inch screws.
6-Replace the shelves and plug in the fridge.
That's it!
1-Unplugging the fridge and emptyi it. Remove all shelves.
2-remove the 2 screws at the top of the back panel with a 1/4 inch nutdriver. You'll have to tilt ithis panel forward and sideways to get it out.
3- DO NOT CHIP AT THR ICE COVERING THE COOLING COILS? Replace one shelf and rest a hair dryer on low heat on the shelf.. Plug the drain hole at the bottom with a rag so all the melted ice water doesn't flood the floor under the fridge. Soak up the water with a rag and bucket- this should take 20-30 minutes.
4-Remove the red and blue power cables from the element. Only 2 philips head screws hold the defrosting element in place. Once it's out you can tell it's burned out because it looks black like a burned out lightbulb.
4-Plug in the red and blue power cables to the new unit. You will need to reroute the blue power cable because the new unit has both power connections on the same end.
5-Replace the cover panel by sliding it in at an angle and replace the 1/4 inch screws.
6-Replace the shelves and plug in the fridge.
That's it!
Parts Used:
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Charles from Longs, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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freezer freezing and fresh food compartment not cooling
i unplugged the fridge, first i removed the racks, then unhooked the grounding clip. the i tool off two 1/4 nut screws holding the backplate. then i used my wifes hair dryer to thaw out the ice. after it thawed out i unscrewed the element bracket which is secured by two philips screw. after taking the screws off, its just unplug one end at a time and plug it to the new one to avoid confusion. then reverse install to put back together.
Parts Used:
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ronald from palmyra, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
2 of 3 people
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Ran All The Time Did Not Freeze.
Removed cover in freezer over evaporator,unbolted element ,plugged ,and replaced, very simple. Should be first thing checked when theres a problem.
Parts Used:
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GARY from SPRAGGS, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 3 people
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No Defrost - Top of freezer thawing
By the time this failure (failed defroster heating element) is evident (top of freezer starts thawing), the entire freezer coil is encased in a block of ice & frost is visble on the back freezer panel.
Empty the freezer & unplug (or turn circuit breaker off) then remove all racks and the light bulb then remove the two lower drawer guides using a phillips srewdriver (2 scrwes each). Use a 1/4" nutdriver to remove the two panel screws on either side of the light bulb socket and pull the panel out, unclip the green grounging wire and set panel aside. this exposes the freezer evaporator coil which is probably encased in ice. If so, use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the ice away. This takes a half hour of heat application and a bowl or other catchpan should be placed under the coil to remove some of the resulting melting runoff so the evap. pan under the fridg/freezer unit won't be overwhelmed with the excess water.
Replacing the defrost heater & bracket assembly itself is just a matter of removing two phillips screws on either side of the bracket assembly, pulling the bracket free and then uncliping the two electrical terminals. Clip in the new unit to the eletrical terminals & replace the screws, reinstall the rear panel (don't forget to reconnect the ground wire), install the drawer backets, light bulb, shelves and drawer & reapply power. Replacing the bracket itself w/o the defrost proceedure takes about 15 minutes.
Note: If this symptom occurs and is diagnosed (the heater tube will be black and electrically read as "open" using an ohmmeter) and you cannot get the heater assembly & bracket assembly immediately, you can use the heat gun (hairdryer) manual defrost proceedure noted above to get the the unit running while you await the parts arrival. I used the manual defrost procedure and there was just some moderate frost on the coils after five days when I was able to install the replacement part.
Empty the freezer & unplug (or turn circuit breaker off) then remove all racks and the light bulb then remove the two lower drawer guides using a phillips srewdriver (2 scrwes each). Use a 1/4" nutdriver to remove the two panel screws on either side of the light bulb socket and pull the panel out, unclip the green grounging wire and set panel aside. this exposes the freezer evaporator coil which is probably encased in ice. If so, use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the ice away. This takes a half hour of heat application and a bowl or other catchpan should be placed under the coil to remove some of the resulting melting runoff so the evap. pan under the fridg/freezer unit won't be overwhelmed with the excess water.
Replacing the defrost heater & bracket assembly itself is just a matter of removing two phillips screws on either side of the bracket assembly, pulling the bracket free and then uncliping the two electrical terminals. Clip in the new unit to the eletrical terminals & replace the screws, reinstall the rear panel (don't forget to reconnect the ground wire), install the drawer backets, light bulb, shelves and drawer & reapply power. Replacing the bracket itself w/o the defrost proceedure takes about 15 minutes.
Note: If this symptom occurs and is diagnosed (the heater tube will be black and electrically read as "open" using an ohmmeter) and you cannot get the heater assembly & bracket assembly immediately, you can use the heat gun (hairdryer) manual defrost proceedure noted above to get the the unit running while you await the parts arrival. I used the manual defrost procedure and there was just some moderate frost on the coils after five days when I was able to install the replacement part.
Parts Used:
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Allen from Schenectady, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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refrigerator not cold
I called the repair tech who obviously did not want to come out, thank god. He told me to remove the back panel of the freezer and also check fan on back side. Told him there was alot of ice on freezer condenser and he advised that defrost heater was probably shot, and referred me to partselect.com. I unplugged the frig/freezerer, and removed the heater and saw it was blackened and cooked. I used a hairdryer to thaw the condenser, and the new part arrived the next day. I reattached the 2 plugs, 2 screws, and put the back panel of the freezer back on. I plugged the appliance back in, checked it 6 hours later and the frig is cold again. It was a VERY easy repair and took less than 30 minutes from start to finish. I was quoted between $40-$78 for the part at 3 different places in the phone book, which would have also required a 45 minute drive. I got it here for $38 including shipping and it arrived in 24 hours !
With the "blow-up view" appliance feature on this web-site, and simply being guided to the correct part by entering the model number, it was a very easy ordering process and repair.
With the "blow-up view" appliance feature on this web-site, and simply being guided to the correct part by entering the model number, it was a very easy ordering process and repair.
Parts Used:
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Paul from Middleville, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
2 of 3 people
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The plastic hinge stops broke.
I cleaned out the door and removed the top hinge. Lifted the door and layed it on the floor. Removed bottom hinge from refridgerator installed new hinge. Replaced plastic stop on door. Used broke hinge to align it and tighten. Lifted door onto new hinge and installed top hinge. Instead of buying $35 dollar hinge buy 2 plastic stops. You'll have to drill out a rivet on bottom hinge but it will save over $30.00.
Parts Used:
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james from olney, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 4 people
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Frost buildup on the inside back wall of freezer, refrigerator section not cooling
Removed shelves and storage drawer from freezer.
Removed the two screws that mount the rear panel cover at the back of the freezer
compartment. Disconnected the grounding clip on the cover exposing the evaporator coils and the defrosting heater at the bottom.
Removed the remaining ice chunks on the coils.
Removed the two screws mounting the single element defroster. Disconnected the wires on each end of the defroster.
The replacement defroster was a two element heater and the instructions clearly showed how to re-route the single wire from the left side to the right side. The harness kit included a short piece of wire and a crimp connector to ensure the length would be sufficient to connect the new heater.
The only item missing in the kit was the RTV required to water proof the wire connection. A quick run to the hardware store took care of that.
Reassembled in reverse order, plugged the refrigerator back in and by the next day temperatures were normal in both the freezer and refrigerator compartment.
A service repairman had quoted $60.00 for the defrost heater plus $250.00 for installation. Using parts from PartSelect the total cost was $44.00 including shipping and about 30 minutes of my time. I'll take the savings anyday.
Thanks for the easy to read instructions and multiple status email notes of the order.
Removed the two screws that mount the rear panel cover at the back of the freezer
compartment. Disconnected the grounding clip on the cover exposing the evaporator coils and the defrosting heater at the bottom.
Removed the remaining ice chunks on the coils.
Removed the two screws mounting the single element defroster. Disconnected the wires on each end of the defroster.
The replacement defroster was a two element heater and the instructions clearly showed how to re-route the single wire from the left side to the right side. The harness kit included a short piece of wire and a crimp connector to ensure the length would be sufficient to connect the new heater.
The only item missing in the kit was the RTV required to water proof the wire connection. A quick run to the hardware store took care of that.
Reassembled in reverse order, plugged the refrigerator back in and by the next day temperatures were normal in both the freezer and refrigerator compartment.
A service repairman had quoted $60.00 for the defrost heater plus $250.00 for installation. Using parts from PartSelect the total cost was $44.00 including shipping and about 30 minutes of my time. I'll take the savings anyday.
Thanks for the easy to read instructions and multiple status email notes of the order.
Parts Used:
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Jose from Castaic, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person
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Frig AND freezer side not cooling
This is a repair INSIDE the freezer. Turned off unit.. Unplugged. Removed shelving on freezer side. Removed freezer draw rails (4 screws total.) Removed 2 screws that hold rear panel in place at rear of freezer side (this is inside the freezer). Carefully removed metal panel by pulling from the left (side that does not have shelving clips. As noted on this website and other users, the freezer coils were incased in ice. Thawed with a hair dryer (put towels in bottom of freezer-ice was pretty heavy in mine). When thawed, remove heater element by removing 2 screws that hold it to the aluminum bracket. Then remove wires on each end. Simply install the new emelment by attaching wires back on heater and screw new unit in place. (My original heating element was a single element-you could very easily see where the heating coil inside the glass tube had shorted out. My replacement heater was a 2 element unit. This did not pose any problem at all-installs in the same manner-good directions are provided.). Replace all parts in reverse order. It's that simple. Saved probably $150. This site is wonderful! Fast shipping and the users install tips/notes are fantastic!! Will shop here again if I have to (have a Maytag washer that isn't draining and going into spin-bet the fix is on here somewhere!
Parts Used:
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Ed from Orient, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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