CSX19LABEWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Cake walk repair.

Unload the door then close it.
Remove screw holding plastic cover over hinge on top.
Remove 2 bolts attaching the hinge on the door.
Slowly open and lift door off of bottom hinge lay on counter.
Unscrew bolt, insert new cam, tighten bolt ,set back on bottom hinge, center install top hinge, tighten and install cover. tool me 6 minutes.

After unplugging refrigerator and allowing freezer section to defrost completely I removed the lght cover in the freezer section and the green ground wire that is clipped to the panel. I was then able to get to the 2 screws needed to remove and pull out the back panel. I removed the failed heater from the bottom by disconnecting the blue and pink wires from the heater. I was replacing a single heater with a double heater so I needed to dress the blue wire down the right side of the evaporator. I positioned the double heater with the yellow jumper wire on the left and continued to connect the blue and pink wires into either socket on the heater. Be sure not to touch the bulbs with your fingers as they could be damaged by the oils on your fingers. Secure the heater by re-inserting the 2 mounting screws. Re-attach the green ground wire with clip to the back panel before you screw the panel back on. Restart the refrigerator and you are done. This was so easy and I saved over $120.00 doing it myself!!!!

Removed 2 screws holding top hinge. Removed door. Removed 2 screws that holds the door stop and cam riser replaced cam riser, provided, replaced stop and screws. Removed 2 screws holding lower hinge replaced with hinge, provided, replaced screws. Put door in place and replaced top hinge and srews. Job done

Removed the evaporator panel's cover. The ice covers up the defrost heater. Use heat gun to melt the ice on the defrost heater then removed the 2 screws, pull it out and check its resistance (it was open). After replaced the deforst heater, the refrig. works OK.

Removed the internal cover and used a hair drier to defrost the evaporator. Unpluged the conectorto the harnes. Placed new part in and pluged it in, replaced cover and tested.

remove screws in back panel and remove , defrost coils wit hair dryer,remove two screws that hold defrost heater unplug wire's.plug in new heater put screws back in ,put panel and screws in ...done

took the panel out of the back of the freezer removed heating element put 2 screws back in the heating element for 2 screws back in the back of the freezer and the shelves

Not really sure of the age of this fridge, as we bought the house 2.5 yrs ago.

I'm one who if it can go wrong, it will, so not realizing how stable the door was from just having the top hinge and the magentic gasket, I declined to prop the door up on blocks the way some guys say the did, and instead removed the top hinge and lifted the whole door off the bottom hinge. I traced the outline of all parts with a felt pen before removing them, figuring I'd need witness marks to help with realignment after the install.
Nut driver might've been an easier choice than the socket set, but the only ones I have a brittle and I've broken the 5/16"...
All parts came out/off easily. The new bottom hinge and the old top hinge (both on the fridge side) practically aligned itself right on my marks, and the new cam (door side) just needed to be held while the screws were tightened. I used the extensioni rod off the ratchet to drive the screws most of the way (making a nutdriver out of it).
Parts were exactly as advertised, although there was a note in the package that stressed the need to replace both parts at the same time due to material differences in the original and replacement parts. Since the cam is sold separately without the hinge, it would be good for the website to reflect that before the purchase is made. Also, even though it was only the cam on the hinge and not the whole hinge that needed to be replaced, I could've bought hte two cams separately and drilled out the rivet as another person had done, but for the $5 difference in cost, why bother?
Door now closes itself as designed, albeit slower than the freezer side, but the Wife says it always did that.
Also interesting that when first assembled, the door DIDN'T close itself at first... not sure it it needed to wear a litle, or if it just needed the added weight of having items back in the door shelves.
Love the great website... just typed in the model number and the parts I needed, complete with drawings to make sure, were right there. Great UI.

1 Unplugged Refrigerator and removed all the freezer shelves.
2. Removed the light bulb in the back of the freezer.
3. Removed rear panel on back wall of freezer. I had to do some defrosting on the back panel due to frost build-up.
4. Defrosted cooling coils using a hair dryer. This took a considerable amount of time due to frost build-up. Also, there was a considerable amount of water run off due to melting. I plugged the drain, and used towels and a bucket to soak up the water.
5. Removed the old element located at the bottom of the cooling coils and removed the wires from each end.. At that time, I also notice when the directions referred to "right" and "left", the point of reference was from looking out of the unit (not facing the unit).
6. Reroute the pink wire on the left side to the right side of the freezer coil. The defrost heater element I removed was a single heating element and the element I purchased was a double heating element. I then attached the blue and pink wires to the right side of the heating unit. (The pink wire was sufficiently long to reach the element. I did not need to splice an extension into it). The yellow "jump" wire was on the left side of the heating unit.
7. Attached the new heater to the freezer coil framing with the two screws.
8. Reinstalled the back freezer panel.
9. Reinstalled the freezer shelves.
10. I plugged in the unit to restart the refrigerator.

The defrosting took a considerage amount of time. Otherwise would have taken about 30-45 minutes.

Emptied the refrigerator door so it was easier to take off. Used a screwdriver to remove the screw on the top hinge. Lifted door off bottom hinge. Laid the door down so I could take the bottom hinge off. Removed worn out parts and placed the new one on. Slipped door back on hinge,made sure it would close properly and was lined up with freeze door. Put top hinge back in place. Done!! Now door finally shuts on its own again!!! EASY!!!

remove plastic top hinge cover then twoscrews holding door with door closed it rested against freezer door then lefted off door put on flat surface remove tow screws at bottom of door installed new cam

Removed the refrigerator door. Replaced the cam riser bushing on the bottom of the door. I then removed the hinge bracket on the bottom of the refrigerator after removing the grill (oh yuk, what a mess under the refrigerator). I put the new bracket on and replaced the door. All is working well again. Thanks for the hints and the parts.

This door was a problem for 1-2 years before I realized it had dropped about 2 inches. On close examination I saw that the hinge parts had completely broke down.
Had original manual-looked up model # on line under GE appliance and was surprised to find a large complete parts dwg showing parts I needed. Decided I needed the hinge assy.
Removed the door cap on top,replaced hinge assy and remounted door in reverse.--Works like new.

Just watch the Parts Select YouTube videos on replacing the door hinges. That helped a lot.

All I needed was a phillips head screw driver and a 5/16ths socket wrench. Easy after watching the video a few times.

My job pretty much paralled the no. one on this list,I am a retired industrial electrician and have many years experience doing similar jobs.Went very well. . Tom Pennington of Muncie Indiana