CGR3600AS3 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

I cut off the four that didn't line up - I suppose since this was a gasket that fit several makes, I should expect this type of problem.

I watched the video on the repair and followed it. Super easy. Repair only took 30 mins. Please note there are 2 glides. Make sure to order 2.

Removed back panel. Popped off top of dryer, then removed front of dryer. Slid belt onto tumbler, put front cover back on, put top back on and adjusted belt frombottom panel cover.

Took it apart and installed the parts. Then I threw the dryer in the trash and bought a new one.

Just opened package and popped the part right in!

took apart and replaced parts easy to do but no one in my town can get me parts. thay want 100.00 gust to come out and look at it so found parts online and thats that

popped in one in

Sooooo Easy. A no brainer. Just line up the knob and push it back on!

Pushed the new timer knob on the dryer. No tools were necessary.

removed old plug which snap out very easy and
snap in new plug.

When the part was delivered I opened the box and unwrapped the knob from the protective paper. I walked down the whole length of my hallway to the laundry room and carefully approached the dryer. Stealthily I reached across the top of the dryer and slid the knob onto the metal rod. Voila! I am now a certified Frigidaire Clothesdryer Repairperson!!

Opened the plastic bag, took out the new knob, slid it on and DONE I'm not using pliers anymore!!

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.

took off face of dryer, removed drum 4 screws removed two srews holding bearing and shaft ,replaced shaft bearing and shaft . Just for preventive maintenance i replaced idleling arm and dryer belt. I lined everything up replaced drum used shop vac to clean lint and dust from all parts replaced face of dryer and boom i got a btand new dryer

I took the dryer apart to vacuum and check because of the screaching noise. Took drum out and found the bearing in pieces and shaft had rubbed against the brace. I thought as old as my dryer was I would never get a piece to fix it. I got online and found PartSelect.com. I found the part but could not tell if all was included. there was a Phone Number so I called it. I was helped instantly. They acted like it was no big deal to have a dryer that old. I got my part within a week and had my dryer back together. It works like new. Thank you