CGR3600AS2 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions
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load squeal
replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.
Parts Used:
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Mark from HGHLNDS RANCH, CO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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No flame, no heat
I recently ordered parts for a gas dryer, Frigidaire GLGQ2152 ES3. When I received an igniter part number PS12585650 order number 14700077, the igniter was broken when I opened the box. I believe what happened is that the new metal bracket was wrapped in the bubble wrap along with the igniter. I called customer service and was setup to return the igniter which I did. Also, I ordered a second igniter. I receive the second one and it wasn't broken and the bracket was outside the bubble wrap during shipment.
As far as the installation of the "replacement" igniter into the gas dryer, I could not find instructions on how to install it. The received igniter is much different than the original. There was a small instruction sheet stating that the new igniter is different but can be installed using the new bracket that came with the igniter. But again there were no instructions on how to do this. It took me great effort to figure out how to do this.
The old igniter had to be removed by removing the old bracket assembly that the igniter was mounted on. The new igniter had to be installed onto the new bracket and then by sliding the new assembly under the old assembly, the screws were reinstalled. Although the holes where the original screws were to be screwed into were too small, they had to be drilled out. There was no hardware (screws) to install the "replacement" igniter onto the shipped bracket.
After much work, I finally got the new igniter installed (without breaking it) with the new bracket and the dryer is back in operation.
As far as the installation of the "replacement" igniter into the gas dryer, I could not find instructions on how to install it. The received igniter is much different than the original. There was a small instruction sheet stating that the new igniter is different but can be installed using the new bracket that came with the igniter. But again there were no instructions on how to do this. It took me great effort to figure out how to do this.
The old igniter had to be removed by removing the old bracket assembly that the igniter was mounted on. The new igniter had to be installed onto the new bracket and then by sliding the new assembly under the old assembly, the screws were reinstalled. Although the holes where the original screws were to be screwed into were too small, they had to be drilled out. There was no hardware (screws) to install the "replacement" igniter onto the shipped bracket.
After much work, I finally got the new igniter installed (without breaking it) with the new bracket and the dryer is back in operation.
Parts Used:
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Christopher from MEDFORD, MA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Loud squealing
As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.
The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.
Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.
Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.
Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.
Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
Parts Used:
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John from Avis, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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squeel when turning
lacked instructions. Internet yielded a simple paragraph. Scored real bonus when we discovered the lint build up past the internal filter was approaching catastropic level. Replaced the exhaust tube (plastic) with rigid metal and resolved to disassemble and clean dryer on 2 year cycle in future. Kit just isn't complete without detailed instructions. Parts were complete and sufficient. Local codes have eliminated the plactic exhaust tube. Recommend that all old installs refit to rigid or semirigid before the fire happens!
Parts Used:
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Bob from Lynchburg, VA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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no heat
I lifted the top at the front edge, slid the top back, disconnected the ground wire connected to the top at the rear edge, just slides off.
Then removed the phillips screws on the inside front edge, only one on each side,near top of dryer disconnect the wiring harness at the right side, cut the nylon tie strap holding harness also.
Tip front panel out a little and lift up, comes right off.
The coils are in plain site on the gas valve, remove the wires, and the two screws holding the bracket that holdes them in place, slide the old ones off and start putting back together.
I also used a vacume and cleaned all the lint and dust off everything I could, including the air intake at the rear of machine, "Peice of Cake"
Then removed the phillips screws on the inside front edge, only one on each side,near top of dryer disconnect the wiring harness at the right side, cut the nylon tie strap holding harness also.
Tip front panel out a little and lift up, comes right off.
The coils are in plain site on the gas valve, remove the wires, and the two screws holding the bracket that holdes them in place, slide the old ones off and start putting back together.
I also used a vacume and cleaned all the lint and dust off everything I could, including the air intake at the rear of machine, "Peice of Cake"
Parts Used:
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James from Alpena, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Had a squelch/squeak coming from the rear of the unit
I looked up a YouTube video on my specific model. Found one that said “basic disassembly”. I watched that and had it apart and back together in no time. Very easy to take apart and put new parts back in it. Re-assembled and since the repair no squeaking.
Parts Used:
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Stephen from HICKSVILLE, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Broken belt
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Sharon from UXBRIDGE, MA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Dryer drum stopped spinning
First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.
Parts Used:
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Ron from Senatobia, MS
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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replace timer knob
I removed the cracked knob and attempted to replace with the new knob. Unfortunately my new knob did not fit. The internal diameter of the replacement knob was 2mm too small. I did not want to go through the hassle of returning and requesting another knob. So I just made it work. Thanks
Parts Used:
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AG from Long Beach, CA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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dryer was squealing loadly
took off face of dryer, removed drum 4 screws removed two srews holding bearing and shaft ,replaced shaft bearing and shaft . Just for preventive maintenance i replaced idleling arm and dryer belt. I lined everything up replaced drum used shop vac to clean lint and dust from all parts replaced face of dryer and boom i got a btand new dryer
Parts Used:
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MIKE from MASSAPEQUA PARK, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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knob on dryer broke so it wouldn't turn the timer on
I know that the knobs on the Gibson dryers break as they are plastic and the back cracks so it won't turn. I have had to get several new ones over the years. I went to Google put in Gibson dryer knob and found it, I had the model number so that helped. I had the part within 24 hrs, awesome service from PartSelect.
Emma W
Emma W
Parts Used:
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Emma from Omaha, NE
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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door handle on washer broke.
Took out of package. Used screw driver to pop off old broken handle.
Installed new part in a minute or two. Nothing to it. Was very pleased to get the part and so easy to install.
Installed new part in a minute or two. Nothing to it. Was very pleased to get the part and so easy to install.
Parts Used:
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Donna from BAKERSFIELD, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Top hinge on clothes dryer separated, leaving door difficult to open/close
Ordered part from partselect.com. Part was back ordered; however they were very proactive in communicating status updates! When it arrived it was simply a matter of removing door using a philips screwdriver, installing the new hinge and presto - job complete! Kudos to partselect.com ??
Parts Used:
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Robert from CUMMING, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Plastic door handle for dryer needed to be replaced.
Snapped the new door handle replacement from this site in place. Fits perfectly.
Parts Used:
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Anne from SANTA BARBARA, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Dryer door handle broken
I just used a putty knife to remove the broken one. It just popped right off.
The new one just popped into place.
I want to say that the girl / lady that answer the phone was extremely helpful and very professional,.
The new one just popped into place.
I want to say that the girl / lady that answer the phone was extremely helpful and very professional,.
Parts Used:
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Doug from TROUTDALE, OR
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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