CFEF372EC6 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Used a screw driver to loosen 2 screws and the pulled the tabs off the old element and installed the new element. I am probably the most "unhandy " guy in the world but this was a snap. I am as surprised as anyone.

The hinges had just wore out ofter several years of service. We took the Oven Door of, simply and took the hings off and ordered the new ones. VERY EASY TO DO. The shipping, my my goodness Ordered on Thursday noon time and received the items before 4 pm on Friday. I just can't get over how quickly You shipped this item. Thanks You, and I will use You again, should the need arise. H. Briden Culleoka, TN

Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair

2 People--removed door, then removed and replaced springs followed by door a brief pictorial of the area even printed on the package would have simplified the project

with a schematic of the door, this was fairly easy. since we had to take it completely apart, we cleaned the glass as well and every little nook and cranny. Once we put it back together, the door looked like we just bought it. these days, with whats available online, scary jobs turn out to easy.

pulled door off took door apart replaced hinge

Husband made install in very short time. Nice to have them back in operation.

open door,throw the door latches at the hinges and remove door. Take the out of the outer panel so you can separate the glasses. remove clip that hold the outer glass in place. I ordered a replacement glass as I never thought that it would come clean it looked so bad, but it cleaned up like new so I now have a spare glass for my oven door. Just reverse the way you take it apart to put it back together.

watched a U-Tube video on this subject.....worked like aa charm!!

Removed outer glass first ,then worked my way thru to inner glass..

Husband/wife effort. We located our manual for removing the door and followed instructions. (It's probably online as well.) With the door off, we removed the screws on the side with the defective hinge, took out the old hinge and put in the new one. In trying to replace the door, we couldn't get the lock (upside-down u-shaped piece on the hinge) to rotate over the hinge lever hook on the new hinge. It looked slightly different than the other side (had a bit more hook on it that was in the way). PartSelect sent a new hinge in case the other was defective. (The first arrived in 2 days; the second in 3. No extra charge. Very pleased with the service!) Same trouble. So we filed off the tip of the hook and were able to move the lock in place and put the door back on. The door is not heavy anymore, but doesn't pull in tightly at the top. We thought about taking it off again and trying to position the new hinge a little better to see if it will fit perfectly (it slants down a little compared to the other side.) But it's not so loose at the top that the oven light comes on, so it's usable the way it is. And it looks good, so we're leaving it.

removed the door from the range. removed the 4 layers of glass and carefully set aside the unbroken ones. the 3rd and 4th glasses were held together with a metal frame which had to be dismantled. The old broken glass was rusted and hard to get out of the frame. It had to be cleaned thoroughly of broken glass and rust. the removal process could then be reversed to assemble the parts and re assemble the door to the front of the range

Removed oven door. Removed screws from bottom of door as well as handle screws. Remove inner panel to expose glass. Replaced glass panel and reverse steps. Very easy.

I was unable to loosen the screws myself so I called my friends husband to help me. We watched the video together and followed the instructions. The door in the video was a bit different than mine but this repair was easy.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.