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CFE28TSHESS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the CFE28TSHESS
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coil frosting up and refridgerator section was not cooling
took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Vernon from Harmony, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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My fridge was colder than my freezer
I can't tell you how luck I feel after finding your website I ordered the temperature sensor after watching one of your videos on-line and the repair went just as on the video. I pulled the "bad" sensor out, and replaced it with the new one. Keep in mind that this is the first time I ever touch an appliance, needless to say I'm feeling pretty good about that! All in all it took me about 20 minutes to complete my repair and it now has been about 4 days and the refrigerator is working like new again!
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Marco from Fallbrook, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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refriger warm
replace sensor in refriger.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • chol from Glenview, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Would not self defrost.
Remove the shelves then remove the back by removing the two screws at the top of the panel. Locate the temperature sensor on top of the coil. Cut the wires and replace with the new one. Use wire nuts and electrical tape to reconnect the wires.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Greg from Rockwood, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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compressor motor wouldn't start, so no refrigeration
My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Overload Ptcr Combo
  • William from Pasco, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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light switch quit working
removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches
Parts Used:
LIGHT SWITCH
  • David from Simpsonville, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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sticky switch
easy pry out, disconnect wiring, connect on new switch and press in switch.
Parts Used:
LIGHT SWITCH
  • ANTHONY from NEW EGYPT, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Fridge was freezing food near the back, adjusting internal temp not fixing the problem
Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Zachary from Decatur, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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freezer would not defrost
There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • philip from cocoa, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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failed light switch
I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.
Parts Used:
LIGHT SWITCH
  • Jules from Crowley, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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refrige ws too cold
as per video
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Jeffrey from Saint Charles, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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no light in freezer
Connected the 2 wires and pushed in the switch until it clicked.
Parts Used:
LIGHT SWITCH
  • christopher from collegeville, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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switch wouldn't come out anymore and turn light on
Gently pry out switch in door jam with screwdriver and pull both connectors off and put connectors on new switch then push switch back into the hole. Looked it up on the internet and video showed how to and also had link to new part, ordered and less than a week later the fridge is bright again. I have an older freezer also and it seems that they all use the same switches. Very Very easy
Parts Used:
LIGHT SWITCH
  • Cynthia from Seatac, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Lost Set Screw
Took set screw and allen wrench and screwed set screw into place.
Parts Used:
Set Screw
  • Barbara from Mansfield, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Refrigerator freezing.
Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Wayne from Rancho Cordova, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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All Instructions for the CFE28TSHESS
91 - 105 of 113