CFE28TP4MLW2 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Received the wrong spring. It is larger in diameter and the legs are too long. I used pliers to modify the spring for a temporary fix. Emailed CS about the wrong part and have never received any response back?

I diagnosed the sensors in my refrigerator by holding the sensor in and seeing if I could trick the sensor it partially worked. I then used a multimeter and did an ohm test on both sensors multiple times open and closed the switch to verify which switch failed because it worked a couple times but not always. It ended up being the switch on the left hand door with 3 terminals on it and after the replacement it has worked great for weeks now no issue. best 15 dollars and 25 minutes spent!

Replaced the water solenoid that has a filter/screen as part of the unit.
Removed the back bottom plate. Turned off water supply, removed hose from water valve. Removed valve assembly, and un-pluged wiring. Installed new unit reverse of removal

The overload protector was the problem. It plugs into the side of the compressor and the run capacitor plugs into it.

If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.

The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.

Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.

Once I received that New Part, just place the 1 Piece from the old Shelf into the New Part and mounted the Shelf in the Door.

my freezer quit freezing, it would freeze for one day, thaw the next, so I went online, found PARTS SELECT, LOOKED UP MY MODEL #, come to find out it needed three parts to keep my freezer to freeze, first part was a thermistor a small PART took me longer to remove all the covers, and shelving, PULLED THE OLD OUT, CUT THE WIERS TO SIZE, AND REINSTALLED, IT WELL! THAT WASN'T ENOUGH THE FREEZER STILL DIDN'T FREEZE IT THOUT IT WAS A COOL WORMING OVEN, HAD TO INSTALL THE THERMISTOR I, SO I DID, TEN MIN, NOW I THOUGHT THAT WAS IT BECAUSE IT STAYED FROZEN FOR A WEAK, HAVE YOU EVER EATEN SOUPY ICE CREAM? SO BACK TO PARTS SELECT, THIS TIME I BOUGHT ONE MORE PT, THE RUN CAPACITOR, FIVE MIN, THAT/S ALL IT TOOK TO INSTALL. I DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME YOU NEED THE THREE OF THEM TO RUN THE FREEZER ONE TO KEEP THE TEMP., ONE TO KEEP THE FAN RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD, AND THE THIRD TO MAKE SURE THE OTHER TWO KEEP RUNNING. NOW I CAN SET IT AT 4- 5 AND. FREEZE.

Installing the part repaired the fridge and freezer immediately.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

Replaced the 8 year old icemaker.
Turned off power.
Did not need to turnoff water supply.
Removed the 1/4" hex head screw from the wire connector cover.
Removed the wire cover taking care to be careful with the thermister
temperature sensor which slides into a square channel in the cover.
Disconnected both wire connectors.
Unscrewed the 5/16" hex screw at bottom of icemaker to unmount the old icemaker, lift the icemaker up 1/2" and out and discard.
Installed new icemaker in reverse order.

1. Turned power off.
2. Removed 2 screws holding plastid plate which connected electrical wire from mullion to door (requires Torq-tip screwdriver).
3. Unplugged wire plug behind the plate.
4. Lifted up old mullion from 2 slots holding it in place to remove it from door.
5. Inserted new mullion into slots on door.
6. Connected electrical wire to plug inside door.
7. Screwed 2 screws to reattached plastic plate to door.
8. Turned power back on.

Replace fan . Fairly easy.

Pulled the instructions up on U-tube and followed them. With the socket removed 5 small bolts. Took the old switches ( I replaced both switches being I had it apart), put the new switches in and then put the 5 bolts back in.

Safety first, unplug fridge. Had to remove the top access panel, which consisted of 5 screws. Got access to the door switches. These are removed from the panel by depressing the plunger on the switch and sliding them out of the retainer. Transferred the wires over to the new switches one for one. Re-assembled. Dispenser works.

Remove all trays, no need to turn app. off,
remove cover on top of back panel, may be a little difficult
remove 2 screws , one behind top plate, one in the middle of large back cover.
remove small cover located at the bottom of the back cover discinnect electrical plug,
remove or loosen 6 screws on lower evap cover, there is no need to remove evap cover, just pry it loose from back.
lift back cover off and disconnect electrical fan will be at the bottom of the large cover.
run warm water over fan and push out.
remove rubber cover and install on new fan,
reinstall new fan and reverse process.
very easy and simple and only takes about 30 minutes.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.