CFCP1RKBESS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Fairly simple fix. You must first uplug refrigerator, then take off the inside freeze door panel, approx. 25 screws. Then you must take out the trap door assembly approx. 6 six screws. Pop off the LED panel, requires the use of a flat blade screw driver to pop it off. Remove solenold by removing 3 screws, replace with new solenold.

After turning the water off, I removed the silver covering located on the left side bottom. The valve was connected to the frame on the left side. I removed the defective valve and replaced it with the new one. Everything was color coded and the hoses were different sizes, making it impossible to screw up. It was over so fast I thought I made a mistake.

Unplugged fridge. Shut off the water supply valve under sink. Removed lower access panel at back of the refrigerator (six screws). Removed single green screw holding water valve bracket and pulled assembly out to access wiring and hoses. It is a dual valve as one valve is for the water dispenser and one is for the ice maker. Disconnected the 2 electrical connectors (one for each valve). Unscrewed the compression fitting for the water inlet with 1/2 " wrench. Then the two water lines on the outlet which are quick disconnects. You must push the ring towards the valve and then the tubing can be pulled out by hand.

Reattach everything to the new valve and install and its ready to use.

I followed the instructions on a posted desctiption. It workded perfectly. Replacing the inner door panel was not as difficult as described. Just start the process with the screws in the middle of the door. Those two screw holes were not slots. All of the remaining screw holes had slots. I installed all of the door screws before tightening any. I workded right the first time.

I replaced the solenoid assembly on the dispensing door and the dual inlet water valve. I found that the solenoid assembly was rusted and caused the door not to allow the ice to dispense properly. Also the water line was checked per the instructional video offered by this site I found trash in the line. I previously had issues with the water freezing in the in-door water dispenser which resulted in a heater repair kit being installed by a service tech it did not last. Everything worked great for a week and the water stopped dispensing from the door. The final fix was found on line as follows - Install a 8 inch length of weed-eater line (.95) into the dispensing tube. Let it extend out about 1" or less. When the water stops flowing just give the line an up and down pull and the small amount of ice in the line is removed thus allowing the water to dispense properly. The trouble shooting and helpful videos provided by this site are great. I received the parts quickly and they followed up with me after the job was completed. I have moved onto the washing machine and ordered parts for another home project. Thanks Randall

removed the control panel ,using a paper clip, removed five screws, disconected wire connector, and removed the solenoid. reversed procedure to reassemble. ordered the part one day and received it the next day. Thank you for the prompt response.

I removed the door cover plate and disconnected the circuit board, then four screws. The part was corroded in place. Upon removing three screws and cleaning the surface, the new part was an exact fit, replaced it and everything works like new.

REPAIR MAN TRIED TO SAY IT NEEDED A COMPRESSOR, THAT DID NOT MAKE SENCE WITH NO POWER. HE WANTED $2000 TO REPLACE IT. i CHAINGED THE POWER INVERTER AND MAIN BOARD FOR UNDER $600 AND FIXED IT..

I changed the filter first as this has happened before when the filter got too old. Still did not work, so ordered the double outlet water valve as the ice dispenser was working. The part was easy to install with the video directions. However, water still did not dispense. Felt the water coil behind the crisper in the refrigerator and it seemed kind of hard. I wondered if it was frozen. Took a hair dryer to it for about 45 seconds and then tried the water again. Voila' This time it worked. Apparently it WAS frozen. I may have not needed to change the filter or water valve, but everything is working fine so I will leave well enough alone.

Took the old filter out and put the new one in.
Easy Breezy!!

repair was easy, just removed control panel and removed screws from solenoid, switched out with new, was done in minutes

1 unplug fridge
2 turn off supply line for ice maker
2 remove lower back panel of fridge
3 disconnect in and out line from valve
4 remove valve (one screw.)
5 disconnect power line to valve.
reverse to reinstall. Very easy.

This valve is a cheap, poor design. This is the second one in 5 years. I replaced the first one because the line in the freezer would "drip" creating an ice dam so the ice maker wouldn't work. This time, the water dispenser on the front of the fridge has been dripping for months - finally the valve just dissolved and was spraying water all over the floor. It ran down into the basement. Keep a eye out if you have a GE fridge.

1. remove back shield of fridge.
2. unscrew old valve.
3. remove electrical connections.
4. remove white inserts on new valve.
5. cut feed hoses next to old valve.
6. place white inserts on hoses.
7 insert hoses into recepticals on new valve.
8 shut off water supply to fridge.
9. remove water suply line from old valve.
10. attach water supply line to new valve.
11. connect electrical connections.
12. bolt valve back on to fridge
13. turn on water supply to fridge
14. test both ice maker and water dispensor
15. replace back shield to fridge

I followed they instructions from the other "do it your selfers" but only replaced the solenoid. This was the cause. Rust was keeping solenoid plunger from moving and this held the flapper door open. Very easy to repair!

First, turn off main water valve. Then, at the rear of refrigerator remove the rear panel exposing the water valve assembly. Cautiously, proceed by disconnecting the water hose and electrical connections. To complete the task, just worked in the reverse steps to exchange the faulty equipment.