CER3311XAW0 Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Very easy . Just removed four screws and removed the back cover. Then just unplugged two clips from the element . The repeated all of my steps in reverse . Be sure to unplug the oven before you start on the project .

I removed the two screws that held the element in place . I think pulled out the element and disconnected the two wires. I put the new element in and connected the two wires. I went to put the element back in and something sparked and burned up the wire. Lesson learned - turn the electricity off first. I had to pay a repair man to come out and replace the wire.

I very simply removed the inside panel of the stove door with a screwdriver. With two screws and two lockwashers and a couple of nuts, I replaced the stove door handle in the already made holes and screwed the screws tight. That was it. Not complicated at all. Thank-you for all the care you gave in packing and the speedy shipping. M. Rhymes

Slide range out,unplug range,remove rear cover to unplug element wires, open door remove screws inside oven remove element

It was simple. Unscrewed to screws at the back of the oven. Slipped off the wire connectors then attached the wire connectors to the new part, put the screws back in and we were back in business.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

First I disconnected the power, removed the screw that hold the element in place. Then, I pulled the element out and cut the two wires. I connected the two wires with the new element as the instruction provided by Part Select. I put the element back and screwed it in place. I plugged in the power and turned on the burner. It works. It is really easy to repair.

replaced drip pans with correct type

Removed the old, broken drawer glide by removing the Phillips head screw. Then placed the new glide into place and fastened with the existing screw.

The rivet on the top of the bottom drawer front was missing. I lined up the drawer front with the supporting bracket behind it and inserted the rivet. All you have to do is tap the top of the pin in the center of the rivet to lock it in place. No rivet tool is needed. That should be explained in the parts listing because I bought the rivet tool before I realized I didn't need it.

Wire connection was damaged, replaced end piece

My elements just plug in so all I had to do was pull them out and replace the drip bowls. They fit perfectly!

My husband pulled the oven out and unscrewed the screws(in the back) the heating element came right out. He did everything on his own. The only thing he needed a little help with was for me to keep the heating coil flush to the back wall of the oven, while he screwed the new one in. It was a very quick job. The longest part was pulling the oven out to get behind it and sliding it back in.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

My wife did it! I got home one night and my wife had done it! That's how easy it was! Trust me, he is no handyman (woman) but she did it by herself. The part came fast, the price was better than any one else's