CEP3540AAB Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Cut broken wire and existed wire off and put splice on both new and old wires to connect them.
It's easy job.

I looked up the part from the parts diagram list and was easily able to order it. The part arrived quickly and I installed it.

After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.

I removed the burner elements for three burners by lifting the surface top and unplugging them. I snapped out the plug sockets that were burned out and cut the two wires, one element at a time. Using the included wire nuts I stripped the ends of the cut wire and connected each wire to one of the wires on the new socket. Once the wires were connected I snapped the sockets in place and reinstalled the elements, lowered the surface top and the range was ready to use.

used drill to remove old screw

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.

Our Maytag Gemini is about 10 years old. One night the 8" front right element was smoking and had a white hot spot on the burner. I quickly turned it off and after the element cooled I removed it. Since one 8" element was burned out, but the rest of the range and oven worked, I assumed I could get it fixed. Rather than call the service man for $99 for a diagnostic visit, I decided to go to PartSelect and get prices on parts. They had the easiest site to use with part numbers, exploded part drawings, etc. Since I had to replace one burned out element anyway, I ordered the burner and the wiring receptacle. I assumed that was step one. The parts came in about two days. It took me about 20 minutes to put them in with no problems. Very easy. However, the burmer still would not work. I went back to the site and determined the only other part it could be was the infinite switch. The bad element little light on the top control panel was not going out even after I put in new parts. I figured it was shorted out and frozen in the closed position, so I ordered a new one from PrtSelect. It came again in about two days. This part was easy to replace, except it took longer because the entire back of the oven had to be removed. Three pieces of sheet metal had to be removed and two plastic end caps. Sheet metal has sharp edges. Watch out that you do not get cut. A lot of screws got removed and put back. You have to be careful that the three pieces of sheet metal are put back correctly because several edge tabs lap over each other. The infinite switch fixed the problem. Took me about two hours to do the switch replacement, but that counted cleaning the sides of the oven and underneath the oven (Yuch!). Now everything works fine. I suspect that the old wiring receptacle was fine and just the infinite switch and element needed to be replaced. In any case, the wiring receptacle was cheap. In the end, the repair cost me the same $99, but I spent it in parts and not parts plus installation so I was way ahead.

Remove heat coils, take body of coil inserts out, remove screws from body, cut old receptacle out, tie new recptacle wires to the old piece of left over wires using wire nuts, and reassemble body, insert heating coils and test.

took old screw out of stove top that held them in and cut the two wires off close to the burner stripped the wires and used the screw caps to put each line together it doesn't matter which line goes where and screwed it back on with the old screw and tried the two burners and they both worked job done ps it took longer for me to type this but i am slow at typing

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).

I was unable to remove the screw which held the electrical element.. so I took the new surface burner receptacle and removed the metal part, and used the old one and put in the new one in the old metal part and rewired, and it is like new.. now I need to do another one.

The video on your website showed me how to take out 1 screw, cut the existing wires and strip the ends. The kit came with 2 porcelan wire nuts to re-connect the wires and it was done. Less than 10 minutes. It saved me $100.00 to get it repaired.I bought 2 in case I need another one in the future.They only cost $11.00 each. Awesome website.

ulplugged elements and dropped in new pans

Took off the back panel, unplugged the power cord, and tested the switch with an ohm meter. Found it open and ordered new switch. Replaced it easily and now have both elements working as required.

So purchased two new 8 inch elements and replaced them.