CED9050AW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

just replaced parys

First I pulled the dryer away from the wall, after which I disconnected the power and dryer vent. I then removed the eight screws holding on the back of the dryer. Next, I disconnected the two wires to the part and unscrewed the mounting screw. I then removed the bad part, replaced it with the new part, and reversed the above steps.

How I did the repair is of little importance. What is important and impressive is the level of service your company provides. You must have a fantastic system in place and a team who has bought into the concept of providing the best customer service possible. I have been a Manager for over 15 years and would go home proud and would sleep well every night if my team offered the service your team does. Please share this feedback with them and take the time to shake the hand of everyone who was in the chain of service of this order. Smile and tell them Russell C says well done and thank you. Your team made my life easier and I feel appreciated as a customer of your Company.

I studied the wiring diagram on the back of the dryer. I diagnosed a bad thermal fuse (no continuity). Found the part online at Part Select. The part came a few days later and I was back in business. Great Service.

It took me 5 minutes to find PartSelect's site, read the comments about the most common problems and identify the solution. The exploded views were a great assist, as it wasn't obvious where the thermal fuse is located or which access panel to remove.

It took less than 5 minutes to remove the rear panel and install a temporary jumper to verify the blown fuse was the only issue. With the new fuse in hand, replair took another 5 minutes.

A word of caution to anyone replacing is fuse - I found that the exhaust vent pipe to the wall was full of lint and nearly blocked. This is a potential fire hazard. While enough air was passing through the flapper vent to make it look like it was OK, the exhaust resistance is what caused the overheating and made the fuse blow.

I spent more time cleaning out the vent pipe than replacing the fuse, for a total of 25 minutes. I strongly urge all dryer owners to physically inspect the exhaust duct annually.

PS Drying time has decreased by 30-40% since the repair.

There were two tricky parts - one, was locating the part to repair on the dryer. One set of instructions said it was on the back of the dryer behind the panel. Once I removed that panel I realized that the thermal fuse was on the front. After I identified where the part was (bottom front), the second tricky part was getting to the screw. You just need a mini-socket set and relatively small hands. A magnetic light that can attach to the dryer while you are working is also useful. This would have been a 30-45 minute job had I known precisely where the part was that needed replacing. Otherwise, this was relatively easy.

The repair, replacing the thernal fuse was easy, just one screw and then remove and replace by disconnecting and reconnecting two wires. It did take a bit of time to find which part was defective. I first removed the back panel and front panel and the drum to get at the igniter and flame window. I checked continuity of these parts as well as the gas solenoids and they all checked out ok. The thermal fuse was last on my list. It read as an open circuit. I temporarily jumpered the two wires at the fuse and checked that the igniter would now heat up. I spent over one hour removing the ductwork and giving the unit a thorough cleaning with a shop vac.

Unplugged dryer from electrical outlet. Removed top panel from dryer to get instructions for location of parts. Removed front panel to get to fuse and thermostat. Had to purchase small socket wrench to access nuts because of small space and angle of difficulty. Removed both parts, and replaced with new parts. Plugged dryer back in. Tested for heat. Working properly.

Replaced Thermal fuse, hardest part was getting behind the drier to disconnect the gas & vent line.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

Followed the Video on how to replace,

I remove the back panel then look for thermal fuse.. so easy to replace.. thank you so much ..

NOTE: Please make sure the dryer is un-plugged any time you are reaching into the access panel with your hands or a tool. There are exposed connections everywhere. After using the diagnostic testing instructions (usually attached to the inside of the front panel) I determined it was a faulty Thermal Fuse. The PartSelect video instructs you to take half the dryer apart to access the Thermal Fuse, but I found it easy enough to just access it with the front panel removed. I used a small 1/4" drive socket to remove the single hex head sheet metal screw holding the Thermal Fuse in place. I then slid the 2 wires off, noting which went to which lug. Installed the new thermal fuse and after starting the screw by hand, tightening with the small socket wrench. It is a bit tricky to reconnect the wires as you are doing it all by feel, but it's a lot easier than taking half the dryer apart. Also, make sure you check the exhaust path for obstructions, that might be why the ThermalFuse blew in the first place.

With the instructional video the repair was very easy.

An online help site lead me to believe the problem was the gas igniter. After ordering that and installing it I discovered that wasn't the problem. I took a look at the schematic which is in the electrical compartment and found that there is more than one thermal breaker. I found the other one, ordered and installed the part and had it running within 30 minutes. I had to access the back of the unit, remove the back cover with a socket wrench, unscrew the thermal breaker and re-install the new one with no special tools.