CEB1590SS2SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I am so glad I found this web site. I ordered the shelf and now I can use my microwave as a convection oven.
The ordering was simple and the delivery was quick. Thank you so much partselect.com

The rack is essential for the operation of the GE microwave combination oven if it is to be operated as a convection oven or when using it in the combination mode. I hope I will never need another part. If I do I will seek a company with better prices and better made parts

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

Another company said the new plate would arrive in mid-March, this company seemed to be faster so ordered the tray here, and it came in less than a week. I put the turn button back in the center hole, set the wheeled ring on the bottom of the oven, fitted the new glass tray onto the turn button.

Placed the new tray into the oven.

First order the assembly which includes the smart board and new touch pad. as for the actual replacement un-plug the power cord of the unit. and move to a work bench or suitable counter to work on. Remove the outside cover about 8 screws. turn the unit so you can easily access the control board. Carefully note the connectors on the board. (hint take a photo if needed to remember the locations of all slip on connectors.) Remove all connectors. press the door open switch on the old board assembly. with the door open on the outside slip the control assembly upwards about a 1/2" and the board will come loose from the unit. with the door open install the new board in the same slots that the other board came from noting that the door opening plastic arm is in the correct position and the slots are aligned. press the assembly down. make sure the door closes correctly and all looks to be in the correct location. re-attache the connectors. Now double check the door operation. now carefully plug back in the power and check the board operation the first thing all lights will come on and after 30 seconds or so you will get a prompt to set the clock. Check that you can set the time of day. If not un-plug and check all connection again. If the board does not respond un-plug the power cord, with the power disconnected check the power fuse on the voltage regulator board ( gray fuse about 1-1/4" long ). if the fuse is bad replace. This should be checked before ordering the assembly. if the fuse is good and the new board does not respond the board is bad. (This happened to me and the first board I ordered. the second board was fine). un-plug the power cord and reinstall the outside cover.

removed micro from cabinet, took off top piece and bottom piece, took off top and side piece to get to bulb. Removed bulb, replaced. Like someone said the engineers at GE should get an award for making an easy job very difficult.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

Took the plate out and replaced the old part with the new one. Worked immediately.

Removed cover
Disconnected capacitor from old magnetron
Removed old magnetron
Installed new part
Connected capacitor
Reinstalled cover

removed cover over motor blew it out of leaves and dust. Removes 4 screws and removed piece ordered. The coil was rusted and not connecting. Changed oiece its working again

Phillips screws out of the side; torx screws out of the bottom/back and slide the cover off of the back. The light is not visible but not hard to find: on the top left side mounted on a black plastic base with 1 phillips screw & stud holds other side. You can tell what the base looks like from the new part. GE probably wants you to call them to make the $-ha. Stay clear of any capacitors (shock) or chips (short) & touch the chassis to ground or if a tech, wear a ground strap.

I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.

I figured out the part number and ordered a new one. Luckily it was the right one and I just replaced the old broken ring. Very easy. Part came quickly.